Subway

TEITO RAPID TRANSIT AUTHORITY

Tokyo Metro All-Line Pass
The bearer of the pass has unlimited access to ride all Tokyo Metro lines within the period of validity.
One month: ¥16,820
Tokyo Metro All-Line Passes are sold at Pass Offices throughout Tokyo Metro's lines
We were unable to find out if the tickets are good for 30 days from date of purchase, or if they are only good during the calendar month when they are purchased.

One-Day Open Ticket
This ticket is good for unlimited use for one day, on Eidan (TRTA) lines only. It can be purchased on the day of use or in advance.  Tickets purchased in advance look nicer.
One Day: ¥710

Tokyo Station Guide
(The TRTA Pass Office in Tokyo Station is located at the RED Dot)

Standard ticket prices:

1-6km ¥160

7-11km ¥190

12-19km ¥230

20-27km ¥270

28-40km ¥3000

Toei Transportation
 

T-Card
The T-card is a common fare card that can be used not only on Toei and Eidan subway lines, but also on any private railway line that is associated with the Passnet system.  There are three types of T-cards(Pass net) : ¥1,000, ¥3,000 and ¥5,000 cards
If you board a train with your T-card(Pass net),you must put the same card into the automatic ticket gate at your final destination.If the station where you last got off is not recorded, you cannot use the card for the next ride. If there is not enough money left in your T-card(Pass net) for one ride, you can buy a ticket putting the card into the vending ticket machine and then paying the shortage.
 

Lines operated by TRTA (Teito): Chiyoda [Ayase~Yoyogi-uehara] [Ayase~Kita-ayase] Ginza [Asakusa~Shibuya] Hanzomon [Shibuya~Suitengumae] Hibiya [Kita-senju~Nakameguro] Marunouchi [Ikebukuro~Ogikubo] [Nakano-sakaue~Honancho] Namboku [Akabane-iwabuchi~Meguro] Tozai [Nakano~Nishi-funabashi] Yurakucho [Wakoshi~Shin-kiba]

Lines operated by Toei: Asakusa line Mita line Shinjuku line Oedo line

Japan Train & Subway Route Planner/Fare Calculator

Trains routes that we will be using:
JR Narita Express a.k.a. N'EX (Goes from Narita airport to Tokyo Station)
JR Keiyo line (Goes from Tokyo Station to Kisarazu Station)
JR Keiyo line (Goes from Tokyo Station to Maihama Station)
JR Chuo line (Goes from Shinjuku Station to Mitaka Station)
JR Keihin-Tohoku line (Goes from Tokyo Station to Kawasaki Station)

 

Narita Express (called "N'EX") provides rapid, frequent, and comfortable service to passengers traveling between Narita International Airport and Tokyo Metropolitan areas
N'EX takes just 53 minutes to cover the distance between Tokyo Station and Narita Airport
The N'EX line runs once every hour, and every 30 minutes at peak hours.

Tickets for the Narita Express are available from ticket machines at Floor B1, at both Narita station and Airport Terminal 2.

N.B.: Bold faced N'EX trains will separate at Tokyo Station. The first cars will go to Shinjuku, Ikebukuro and/or Omiya, and the last cars will go to Yokohama and/or Ofuna
 

SUICA - Super Urban Intelligent Card
It's small, it's green, it's the same size and dimension as your credit card and once you buy it you'll never need to take it out of your wallet or train pass holder again. With the release of JR's (Japan Railway) Suica smart card earlier this year traveling on the train and entering and exiting train stations in Japan just became even easier. Commuters now need only scan the card along the top of a special card reader that is located on the top of the ticket gate or turnstile.  Suica requires a ¥500 deposit.
Suica is not accepted for Shinkansen travel.

Additional information

Japan Rail Pass

Requirement to use Japan Rail Pass: A foreign tourist visiting Japan from abroad, under the entry status of "temporary visitor ()".

"Temporary visitor" entry status, according to Japanese Immigration Law, allows a stay in Japan of 15 days or 90 days for "sight-seeing, etc.".  If you apply for a "stay for sight-seeing" when you enter Japan, entry personnel will stamp your passport as "temporary visitor." Only persons who have a passport bearing this stamp can use a JR EAST PASS.

Note: Indicated office hours are for weekdays.  Hours vary among offices on weekends and holidays.  Some Travel Service Centers are closed during the New Year holiday period.  Offices and office hours are subject to change or discontinuation without notice.
Stations with JAPAN RAIL PASS exchange offices

Station	Office	Office Hours	Days Closed
Narita Airport Terminal 1	Travel Service Center Ticket Office	11:30-19:00 6:30-11:30, 19:00-21:45	None
Narita Airport Terminal 2	Travel Service Center Ticket Office	11:30-19:00 6:30-11:30, 19:00-21:50	None
Tokyo	Travel Service Center Ticket Office	10:00-18:30 5:30-23:00	None

We should attempt to reserve seats when purchasing tickets.

Japan Rail & Eidan Subway Train names in Japanese & their sounds, too:
http://hisaai-hp.hp.infoseek.co.jp/JREast/Yamanote/Yt_s_eg.html

JR East English homepage, Rail Pass Homepage
(English Homepage only lists fares for Shinkansen trains going out of Tokyo Station, not local trains)

American dealer that vends Rail Passes: JTB USA

Reserved: Sawanoya Ryokan (Ueno) Address: 2-3-11, Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo 110-0001 Telephone: (03) 3822-2251 Cost: ¥11,200 double occupancy w/o bath Check In: 3:00PM Check Out: 10:00AM 7 min. walk from No. 1 exit of Nezu Sta. on the subway chiyoda Line(inside circle) or 10 min. by taxi from JR and Keisei Ueno Sta.

Name (City)	Notes	Address Nearness to subway station(s)	Cost/day for double occupancy	VISA	Western-Style
					Bed	Bath
Sawanoya Ryokan (Ueno)	Medium distance from nearest subway station Map is on website Coin operated laundry Free Internet access in hotel lobby Has a shared communal refrigerator	2-3-11, Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo 110-0001 7 min. walk from No. 1 exit of Nezu Sta. on the subway chiyoda Line(inside circle) or 10 min. by taxi from JR and Keisei Ueno Sta. and 30 min. by walk from JR or Keisei Ueno Sta.	¥11,200	Y	N	N (private bath is not available)

Tabehodai Sushi Restaurants (Tokyo)

Tabehodai Hinazushi (Ginza*) (Roppongi) (Shibuya) (Daiba*) AYCE SUSHI LUNCH & DINNER Ginza: Mon-Fri: 11:30am-2:30pm & 5pm-11pm  Sat: 12pm-10:30pm  Sun: 12pm-10pm Echigaya Building 2F 2-6-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku 3562 0351 Roppongi: 6-1-20 B1, 3403-9112 Shibuya: 81-3 3462-1003 Daiba: Open 11:30am-2:00pm, 5:00pm-10:30pm Closed Mondays 1-3-5 Sunset Beach Restaurant Row 5531-0017 tabehodai: Japanese for "All you can eat" Hinazushi Okay! So now you're in Japan and you're ready to chow down on huge amounts of sushi. Unfortunately you can't seem to do that without paying through the gills, and the only alternatives are the not so appetizing roll around sushi bars. Help is on the way, with this tabehodai (all you can eat) sushi restaurant located in the heart of Ginza. For ¥4,300 you can knock back all of the toro, maguro, and uni you want. This place does it for quality and variety. You could do much much worse in L.A. Average cost is $55.00. Nearby Trains: Ginza Station. Making reservations is adviseable.

Tsukiji Tamazushi (Tsukiji*) AYCE SUSHI DINNER Chuo-ku Tsukiji 1-9-4 Near the central fish market, Tsukiji Tamazushi restaurant offers all-you-can-eat sushi for $26 for men, $24.50 for women. Tel: 3541-1917

Tsukaiji Honten (Shibuya) essentially AYCE Sushi Lunch 24-8 Udagawa-cho Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi.  ¥100 for a plate of two pieces of sushi A sign in English explains the conditions for entry: 1) Eat at least 5 dishes 2) Eat fast if many people are waiting 3) Finish 5 - 6 plates in max. 10 minutes, 10-12 plates in max. 20 minutes. The sign says eat quickly so that other customers can eat; higher turnover = lower price for customer.

Tabehodai Restaurants (Tokyo)

Mo Mo Paradise (Shibuya)(Ikebukuro*) (Jiyugaoka) AYCE LUNCH & DINNER How's this for nirvana: For ¥1,000 (during lunchtime -- PG) have all the sukiyaki or shabu shabu you can eat. Stuff yourself with meat, veggies, tofu and rice and they'll keep it coming until you give up (provided it's within 90 minutes, that is). Though not by a long shot the best representation of Japan's haute cuisine, the quality is more than adequate for the price. Moo moo. Shibuya: Lunch 11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri. 31-2 Shibuya Beam 6F, Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku (03-3461-2941) Alternate Review: This is a very good shabu shabu and suki yaki restaurant. It is tabehodai for ¥1,500 (for dinner -- PG) +tx in 90 minutes and nomihodai on beer and fruit drinks (with sake?) for an additional ¥980. It's open every day until 23h00.  There usually is an advertisement for the restaurant on ground level. Ikebukuro: Lunch 11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri. 1-21-2 Minami Ikebukuro, Humax Pavilion 8F, Toshima-ku (03-5950-4129) Jiyugaoka: Lunch 11:30am-2pm daily. Jiyugaoka 1-13-11, Humax Pavilion Jiyugaoka 2F, Meguro-ku (03-5701-4129) Alternate Review: At Mo Mo Paradise, guests are treated to choice cuts of Black Angus beef imported from the United States in an upscale atmosphere that features stylized paintings of bulls. Before eating shabu shabu, turn on the hot plate in the center of the table and boil the water in a steel bowl. Using your chopsticks, quickly swish the meat in the water (some folks believe that it tastes better if you sing 'shabu shabu' as you do this) until it's cooked. Then dip the meat in a choice of two sauces, either gomadare, a slightly sweet sesame sauce, or ponzu, a soy and vinegar combination. Only after eating the meat should you then cook your tofu, carrot, hakusai cabbage, maitake mushrooms, and negi green onions. Sukiyaki, the slightly tougher and sweeter meat dish eaten with raw egg, is also a house specialty.

Hiroba - Crayon House (Shibuya*) AYCE LUNCH 3-8-15 Kita-Aoyama, Shibuya-ku Tel: 3406-6409 Lunch ¥1,200. This organic restaurant in the basement of Keiko Ochiai's bookshop (behind the Hanae Mori building) offers an excellent lunch buffet. Help yourself to unlimited plates of a choice of salads, and main dishes usually centered around fish, pumpkin, and tofu. Fill up on genmai or white rice and miso soup. Alternate Review: Opening hours: 11:00-21:00 Consists of two separate restaurants, Hiroba which serves Japanese food and Home which serves French food. A buffet lunch for ¥1,200 is available at the former. Organic food is used and an organic vegetable shop can also be found there.  Both the bookshop and the restaurant are run by a well known Japanese Feminist  --  PG From Subway Omotesando Junction Exit B1, head north (toward Harajuku and Meiji Jingu), turn left at corner of Mori-Hanae Bldg.  About 3 minutes from station. Large Map (in Japanese)

Sea Carnival (Shibuya) AYCE Dinner May have gone out of business.. 13-16 Kokusai Bldg 4F Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku Tel: 3770-7385 Available 5:30PM until 11:00PM everyday. Seafood shabu-shabu dinner course for ¥2,350 (90-minute limit). Buffet-style restaurant offers all-you-can-eat shabu-shabu menu with shrimp, hairy crab, scallops, beef, tofu, noodles, eggs, rice and vegetables. Dessert includes cake and ice cream. Sea Carnival is inside of building A on the map to the right.

Sasaki (Nihonbashi) AYCE DINNER 4-2-3 Nihonbashi, Chiyoda-ku Tel: 3241-5296 Available weekdays from 4:00PM until 10:00PM Shabu shabu dinner course ¥2,800 (2-hour time limit). Course includes unlimited shabu shabu and sukiyaki meat, vegetables and sauces. All you can drink course (excludes wine and sake) for extra ¥1,500.

Pink Cow (Shibuya*) AYCE FRIDAY & SATURDAY DINNER Shibuya-ku 1-3-18 Villa Moderuna B1 Tel: 3406-5597 Friday and Saturday night buffet party 7:00PM - 10:00PM Nice wines, "fresh herb cuisine", and fresh art in a very relaxed and homey setting. Wander around and explore the many rooms. There's a ¥2,500 buffet dinner party Friday and Saturday nights (7-10pm). Call ahead for reservations Nearest Station: 5 min. from Omotesando sta. exit B2.

Hong Kong Shokudo (Shibuya*) AYCE LUNCH & DINNER 1-4-4 Ebisu S2 Bldg 2F Nishi-Ebisu, Shibuya-ku Tel: 5489-3638 Lunch ¥850. A funky little Hong Kong canteen with a Canton pop sensibility to make Wong Kar-wai happy. Lunch time specials from ¥850 to ¥1,000 include a choice of several delicious main courses (including chicken rice, fried noodles, shrimp chahan, dim sum) and all the rice, gruel, dessert you can eat. Dinner ¥2,500 (90-minute limit). The dinner menu at this funky HK canteen includes shrimp gyoza, Hong Kong style shumai, deep-fried daikon, spring rolls, noodles and five other dim sum varieties. The nomihoudai (all-you-can-drink) course is an extra ¥1,500 and includes nonstop beer, five types of Chinese sake or oolong tea. Leslie Cheung provides the BGM. Nearest station: Ebisu Hong Kong Shokudo is represented by letter "K" on the map to the right.

Suiryu (Shibuya*) AYCE Dinner 13-6 Chitose Kaikan 2F Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku Tel: 3461-2555 Chinese dinner course for ¥1,980 (minimum 2 people, 2-hour limit). Choose from over 100 dishes including staples such as prawns in chili sauce, cucumber and chicken salad, fried rice, gomoku soba, spring rolls, beef and tofu stirfry, etc. Available everyday. Also does lunch for ¥1,000. Branch in Yokohama too.

Kinka Hanten (Gaienmae) AYCE LUNCH? & DINNER? 3-1-30 Sumitomo Seimei Bldg. B1F, Minami-Aoyama Tel: 3479-4967 Open 11am-10pm daily. A wide selection of freshly made dim sum is available all day long; there's also a big a la carte menu plus assorted dinners and all-you-can-eat specials. The room won't win any interior decorating awards, but the cooking is solid, the service pleasant and professional.

Carne Station (Ginza*) AYCE LUNCH & DINNER Ginza Nine Building #3 8-5 Ginza, Chiyoda-ku (Shimbashi subway exit #1) Tel: 5568-6167 Lunch buffet 11am-4pm; Dinner buffet 4pm-11:30pm Yakiniku (Korean barbecue) Buffet for both lunch & dinner Lunch ¥970, Dinner w/ crab & superior quality beef ¥4,900. Reservations are a good idea. One hour time limit. Call ahead to find out the time limit on tabehoudai during dinnertime. Review in English Alternate Review: If Yakiniku (Korean-style barbecue) suits your taste buds, keep walking down those same stairs to the basement of the Farm Grill building and you will find one of the few all-you-can-eat yakiniku buffets in all of Tokyo, Karune Station (03-5568-6167). You can make repeated trips to several vegetable trays and more than ten different trays of meats, each a different type of pork, beef or chicken sauteed in a variety of mouthwatering flavors and spices. Then taking your bounty back to your table, which has a grill in the center, you cook your own food and eat it right from the grill after dipping it in one of several sauces. There are also drinks, soups, fruits, rice and desserts. At ¥970, unbelievable! This lunch menu is from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. when the dinner menu begins. This is still an all-you-can-eat buffet, but at a more rational price of ¥2,900.

Dezaru (Shinjuku) AYCE Dinner May have gone out of business.. Shinjuku-ku, Nishi Shinjuku 6-8-4 Tel: 3340-5882 Available weekdays from 5 until 10pm. Yakiniku dinner course for ¥3,000 (90-minute time limit). Buffet-style yakiniku restaurant offers unlimited Korean barbecue meats (kalbi, hormon, harami, etc.) as well as vegetables, seafood, kimchee, and rice. Also includes a full salad bar.

Siam (Ginza*, 2 locations?) (Shibuya) AYCE LUNCH 5-8-17 World Town Building 8F Ginza, Chuo-ku Tel: 03-3572-4101 Hours: 11:00AM - 3:00PM (Last Order 2:00 PM) and 5:30PM - 10:30PM (Last Order 9:30 PM) The restaurant is open every day except late December and early January.  Thai cuisine  --  PG The Siam (May be a different restaurant..  --  PG) Ginza Inz 1-2F 3-1 Ginza-Nishi Chuo-ku Tokyo 104 Tel: 03-3563-3106 Weekday Daytime  11:30-15:00(order stop 14:00) Weekday Night time17:00-22:30(Order stop 21:30) Weekends and the national holidays Lunch time11:30-15:00 (last order 14:00) Weekends and the national holidays Night time17:00-22:30 (last order 21:30) Shibuya-ku, Jinnan 1-15-8 B1, 3770-0550 Lunch ¥1,000. This chain of Thai restaurants (branches in Shibuya, Ginza) offers a wide variety of authentic Thai food. Fourteen different dishes, mild and spicy, including green curry, tom yam, and other specialties. (Menu changes monthly.)

Erawan (Shinjuku) (Harumi) AYCE LUNCH Shinjuku Humax Pavilion 2F (Back of Shinjuku Mitsukoshi) 3-28-10 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0022 Tel: 3341-5127 Open 11:30am-3, 5-10:15pm (LO; -5am Fri/Sat) daily. Inexpensive Thai curry buffet lunch. Someone complained about the quality of the lunch buffet --  PG Harumi May have gone out of business in January of 2003 1-8-16 Harumi, Triton Square 3F Tel: 5144-8251 Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily Nearest station: Chuo-ku (4 min walk from Kachidoki Stn. -Oedo line) Buffet lunch is ¥1,000 per person.

Fan (Shibuya) (Shinjuku) AYCE LUNCH Shibuya Kokusai Bldg. A 2F, Udagawacho 13-16, just down the hill from Parco. Tel: 3770-9520 Open 11:30-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily. The mixed-curry buffet lunch is ¥950; filling dinners start at ¥2,300, with a la carte items from ¥400. Southeast Asian styled cuisine  --  PG Shinjuku Shinjuku 3-34-1 Tel: 3341-6820 Open 11:30-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily. Inexpensive and spicy Asian-styled dishes in a lively, student-dominated atmosphere. The Asian buffet lunch is ¥950; filling dinners start at ¥2,300, with a la carte items from ¥400.

Kumbira (Ebisu) AYCE LUNCH 1-9-14 Ebisu-Minami Tel: 3719-6115 Open 11:30AM-2:00PM, 5:00PM-10:30PM (LO) daily Nepalese and Tibetan curries, noodles and Tandoori-style dishes. The restaurant is tucked into a back alley a few blocks from Ebisu station, and is divided into several small, cozy rooms spread out over several levels. At lunchtime there's an all-you-can eat buffet for ¥1,200.

Phothai Down Under (Roppongi*) AYCE LUNCH 5-18-21 Five Plaza Bldg. 2F, Roppongi Tel: 3505-1504 Open 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5-10pm (LO; 11pm Fri/Sat) daily "Australian-style" Thai barbecue and standard Thai curries. There's a ¥900 all-you-can-eat buffet at lunchtime

Kumkum Maharaja (Ikebukuro*) (Shinjuku, 4 locations) AYCE LUNCH & MULTI-COURSE DINNER Ikebukuro: Kum Kum Maharaja 1-22-2 FLC Bldg. 8F Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku Tel: 5992-7421 Lunch buffet ¥950.  All you can eat at this established Indian restaurant chain. Weekdays: 11:00AM - 3:00PM  Weekends & Holidays: 11:00AM - 4:00PM Indian dinner course for ¥5,000. Course includes fish, chicken, and vegetable curry, pakora, kebab, 8 types of naan bread, saffron rice. Drink menu includes lassi and 15 others. Available everyday from 3:00PM until 11:00PM. Ikebukuro location is in the FLC Bldg. opposite SEIBU Many locations around Tokyo (link) Shinjuku: 03-5325-6797 Spice Heaven Shinjuku 3-7-1 Shinjuku Park Tower B1F, Nishi-Shinjuku Tel: 03-5325-6797 Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily. There's an Indian curry buffet at lunchtime. Shinjuku: 3352-9455 Shinjuku Kazana 3-30-11 Shinjuku B1 (Across from Isetan, on Shinjuku-dori near shakey's & Mitsukoshi department store) Tel: 3352-9455 Open 11am-9:30pm (LO) daily. Indian lunch buffet for ¥980. Great curries but best is their saffron rice. Shinjuku (map): Shinjuku Maharaja Tel: 5352-7858/9 Nishi Shinjuku: Kum Kum Maharaja Tel: 5323-4215

Stockholm (Akasaka*) AYCE DINNER 2-14-3 Tokyu Plaza 1F Akasaka, Nagatacho Open daily from 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5:00PM-11:00PM (Last Order 9:30-10) Tel: 3509-1677 Pickled herring and much more - their awe-inspiring smorgasbord is a real adventure in dining, so come with a hearty appetite. They also have an impressive selection of eight distinctive aquavits. Lunch ¥3,000, dinner ¥6,500; there's also an a la carte menu. They are right outside Akasaka subway station.  --  PG

Marble Lounge (Shinjuku*) SUNDAY BRUNCH 6-6-2, Hilton Hotel Nishi-Shinjuku Tel: 3344-5111 Open Sunday 11am-2pm The sumptuous Sunday brunch buffet in the Hilton Hotel lobby includes plenty of breakfast dishes, Japanese breakfast items, a special children's menu and roving clowns. ¥3,500 for adults, ¥1,750 for children. 10-minute walk from Shinjuku Station. The complimentary shuttle bus leaves for the hotel regularly between 08:00 to 21:30 from Shinjuku Station (West Exit), Bus Stop #21 in front of Keio Department Store.

Oslo (Shibuya) AYCE LUNCH Toho Seimei Bldg 31F 2-15-1 Shibuya Tel: 3406-6360 Lunch ¥1,250. One of Shibuya's best kept secrets, this restaurant buffet features 10 cold salads and a variety of starters, main dishes, and desserts. The food is classic Western food for the Japanese palate, but it's wholesome filling stuff. Nearest Station: Shibuya

Barbacoa Grill (Shibuya*) AYCE LUNCH & DINNER Shibuya-ku, Jingumae 4-3-24 B1F Tel: 3796-0571 Lunch ¥1,200. This Brazilian barbecue joint has a raw meaty smell but an excellent salad buffet, choice of bottomless soft drinks, and a good choice of desserts. Main courses are limited to deep fried seafood and chicken, but meat eaters will love the rare beef roast. Off Omotesando dori. Alternate Review: For steak hungers, there is a Brazilian restaurant that offers a niku tabehodai, no time limit. It includes a very descent salad bar (about 20 varieties), chicken, sausage, and of course, beef, steak, sparerib, etc. The quality is very high, not mentioning the quantity. And leave some stomach for the fruits and dessert as well, just when I thought I couldn't stuff anymore, I ended up taking three plates of them. The price is around ¥3,200. The restaurant is called Barbacoa Grill. It's about 5 min walk from Omotesando station (hanzomon/ginza subway line). Take exit A2, walk towards Harajuku direction (If you see a police box on your left after 1min, then you are heading the wrong direction, turn back), turn right at the first street, walk straight and the restaurant is on your left.

Shamaim (Sakaecho*) AYCE LUNCH & DINNER 4-11 Art Bldg 2F, Sakaecho Nerima-ku Tel: 3948-5333 Open 5-11pm (LO). Closed Mondays. Open noon-midnight Saturdays and Sundays. An Israeli restaurant and pub, one minute from Ekoda south exit. They serve falafel, humus, salads, stuffed pastries and soups, plus shish kebab and one or two other meat dishes. 50 seats; reservations recommended. The all-you-can-eat special is ¥2,000. Call ahead to see what times the all you can eat special is available.

Zapata (Harajuku*) AYCE DINNER 6-18-10 Ebina Bldg. B1F, Jingumae Open 6-11pm (LO) daily. Tel: 3499-5888 Beautiful decor and excellent service. Most of the food is tasty enough, although not extremely authentic. (It's Tex-Mex with a Japanese twist) They offer a ¥2,500 all-you-can-eat buffet at dinnertime. Directions: Get out of Harajuku station, go towards Omotesando, turn right on Meiji Dori and walk on the left side of the street towards Shibuya. Walk a good 700 m and you will find Zapata next to the Crocodile Alternate review: We went back at dinner another day to try the highly-touted all-you-can-eat Tacos Bar (¥2,500). The "tacos bar" part is a bit of a misnomer, though it certainly doesn't skimp on volume. Rather than a bar (belly up and eat yourself silly), the approach leans toward kaiseki: small courses follow one after the other. First comes a large serving of creamy, garlicky guacamole with home-made tortilla chips, two kinds of salsa and finger bowls to wash away the oil. This was quickly followed by two plates (each!) of mixed appetizers, such as marinated squid, Mexican salad, grilled shrimp and escabeche, then chicken and cheese quesadillas. What followed next was the most interesting: four different tortillas (spinach, herb, paprika and regular) with shredded chicken, chili con carne, sour cream, cheese and more guacamole. While we were divvying these up, chicken enchiladas arrived, the first truly fiery event of the evening (ask for extra jalapeños or salsa if you like heat). At this point I assumed we were done; we'd certainly had enough to eat. But an ominously large trolley was wheeled to our table, laden with fresh seafood (swordfish, shrimp, scallops), cuts of beef and chicken. If we'd been able to eat any more, we could have had some of everything, in a choice of sauces. I opted for scallops seasoned with a bold garlic butter sauce with fresh herbs and vegetables. In truth, it was all a bit too much at this point. All-you-can't-eat is a better tag for this place.

Schinken Haus (Hiroo) AYCE Dinner 5-22-1 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku Tel: 3444-4623 German dinner course for ¥2,600. Choose from an unlimited supply of various types of ham, herb sausages, and cheese. Also includes salad, sauerkraut, German potato, dark bread and soup. Available Monday to Saturday from 5 until 11 pm, Sundays and holidays from 5 until 9pm.

Polynesian Terrace Restaurant (Disneyland*) AYCE Disney Lunch Tokyo Disney: Adventureland, Disneyland "A South Sea island-inspired buffet, which includes desserts" only for lunch

Sailing Day Buffet (Disney Sea*) AYCE Disney Dinner Tokyo Disney: American Waterfront, Disney Sea Buffet-style restaurant, cuisine unknown

Marble Lounge - Shinjuku Hilton Hotel (Shinjuku) AYCE Afternoon Tea & Cake 6-6-2 Hilton Hotel Nishi-Shinjuku Cake buffet, 2:30 until 7pm, ¥1,700. A full spread of delicious cakes and fruit, with a smattering of sandwiches. Tea and coffee refills. Skip lunch and pig out.

Sienna (Ginza) AYCE Afternoon Tea & Cake 5-7-2 Sanai Dream Center Bldg 8/9F Ginza Chuo-ku Tel: 3289-2313 Open everyday from 3 until 5:30pm. Italian dessert course for ¥1,800. Simply order from a menu of 17 items--this is an all-you-can-eat deal with waiter service. All your favorite Italian cakes and puddings, including chestnut charlotte, shortcake, cheese souffle, hazelnut chocolate cake, tiramisu, apple tart. Drinks include coffee, tea, guava and blood orange juice.

Yurakucho Lipton Corner (Yurakucho) AYCE Afternoon Tea & Cake 1-10-1 Yurakucho Bldg. 1F Yurakucho, Chuo-ku Tel: 3213-8484 Open from 5 until 9:30pm weekdays, and from 11:30am until 7pm Saturdays. Afternoon tea set for ¥1,360 (60-minute limit). Eight kinds of cake (caramel custard, bread pudding, chocolate mousse, Royal Milk Tea jelly, etc.), roast beef and club-house sandwiches, and 3 kinds of spaghetti.

Ciel Blue (Tea Lounge & Pub) (Aoyama) AYCE Afternoon Tea & Cake CI Plaza 2F Kita-Aoyama 2-3-1, Minato-ku Tel: 3470-5673 Open everyday from 2 until 4pm. Afternoon tea course for ¥1,200. Buffet-style service of between 20 to 25 cakes (including chocolate crepe, rare cheese cake, chestnut torte, cheese souffle, several kinds of mousse, rumbaba). Unlimited tea and coffee.

Yumekaido (Shinjuku*) Kaiten Sushi (Sushi go round) Exit B7/8 Metro Promenade Shinjuku Station These places are great if you aren't sure you like sushi, or what sushi you do like. Simply choose a plate as they move by on the conveyor belt. At the end you are charged per plate.

Tokyo Food Page lunch and dinner buffets Listings updated monthly

Tokyo Food Page Weekend Brunch listings ( Not necessarily Tabehoudai ) Listings updated monthly

Traditional Restaurants (Tokyo)

Ginza Rangetsu (Ginza*) B1F, 3-5-8 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061 Tel: 3567-1021 Mon-Sa. 11:30 a.m. - 11 p.m., Sun and holidays 11:30 a.m. - 9 p.m. Another good Japanese outlet is Rangetsu, on Chuo-dori of Ginza. It has a variety of Japanese menus, including sukiyaki, shabu-shabu and kaiseki dishes. Compartmentalized rooms are available for no additional cost; Nearest station: Ginza, various subway lines. Menu in English

Restaurant Hokusai* Tokyo Disney: World Bazaar, Disneyland Traditional Japanese cuisine From what I've read, it offers a very conservative menu; bento box, tempura, etc. Also, please note, that cute Japanese girls are not part of the meal  --  PG

Restaurant Sakura* Tokyo Disney: American Waterfront, Disney Sea Japanese Fusion Cuisine? (Menu in English)

Doremi of Tokyo (Ginza*) Okonomiyaki restaurant Location: 7-5-4 B1 Ginza, Chuo-Ku Tel: 03-3573-6554

Ginza Again (Ginza*) Pressed grilled sandwiches 5-2-1 Ginza Palmy Bldg. B1 Ginza Chuo-Ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3572-5096 It may be in the Toshiba Ginza-Palmy Building?  --  PG Lunchtime set, which includes sandwich, salad, drink, & a gratin, ¥980 As for enjoyment of the press sand " of the アゲイン ", there is an abundance of the variation of generally known tool and seasoning of the surface of the pan which are put in. Every one one time the just sandwich which such as kim chee would like to try tasting and horseradish and miso taste the original and the Japanese style, in addition to Italian 「アゲイン」のプレスサンドの楽しさは、中に挟むいわゆる具とパンの表面の味付けとのバリ エーションの豊富さにある。オリジナルや和風、イタリアンに加えキムチやわさび、味噌味など、どれも一度は味わってみたいサンドイッチばかりだ。

Shisen Hanten (Hirawacho*) Iron Chef Chen Kenichi's restaurants Primary Location: Zenkoku Ryokan Kaiken F5-6, 2-5-5 Hiragacho, Chiyoda-ku Tel: 03-3263-9371    3rd party review: http://www.ironchef.com/ironchinrest.shtml    Review w/ map (Babelfish translation)    Shisen Hanten: Akasaka    Spicy Szechuan-style cuisine.    Shisen Hanten costs ¥6,800/person, not including drinks.    The a la carte menu is in English, and the waiters may speak English.    Nearest subway station: Nagatacho The restaurant is in Hirakawa 2-chome down the street from the Akasaka Prince Hotel. If you take station exit four from the Nagatacho station, then turn left, make the first right, then the first left, the restaurant will be in front of you on the right side of the street.  There is no JR (Japan Rail) access, however the purple line, the Nagatacho Eki which serves the Yurakucho-sen and the Hanzomon-sen, will take you about five minutes away (walking) from the restaurant. Second Location: Tobu Ikebukuro F14, 1-1-25 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tel 03-3981-2350 Third Location: Uni Roppongi Bldg. F4, 7-15-17 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tel 03-3402-3465

Rokusan-tei (Ginza) Daisan Sowaredo Ginza Bldg. 8th and 9th floors 8-8-7 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Opening hours: 17:00-20:30 Tel: 03 3571-1763 You can dine on Michiba's food at Rokusan-tei in Ginza and Brasserie Rokusaburo. He also has a restaurant in Akasaka named Poisson Roksuboro. The Ginza restaurant is Michiba's main restaurant. Homepage (Babelfish Translation) Prices: Rokusan course ¥12,000, Special course (only during globefish season) ¥15,000

Hyotan (Asakusa*) Monjya-yaki Restaurant 1-37-4 Asakusa, Taito-ku Tel: 3845-5010 Try various monjya-yaki at Hyotan Monjya-yaki: It's similar to okonomiyaki (Japanese-style pancake), but monjya-yaki is softer than okonomiyaki. People directly eat monjya-yaki from a teppan (iron table). Hours: 11:00 - 22:30 every day Hyotan is on the western edge of the map to the right, it's the red balloon with a white square inside it.

Daikoku-ya (Asakusa*) Tempura Shrimp 1-38-10 Asakusa, Taito-ku Tel: 3844-1111 In this long-established restaurant, a bowl of rice topped with deep-fried fish is served. There is always a long line of customers waiting in front of the restaurant, brought by the good smell of sesame oil. The popular Prawn tendon (1,800 yen) contains four prawns, bigger than the bowl. Open everyday 11:30AM - 8:30PM - 9:00PM on Saturdays and Sundays Daikoku-ya is represented by #17 on the map to the right  --  PG

Tokyo Daihanten (Shinjuku) Weekend? Dim Sum 5-17-13 Shinjuku Open 11:30am-9:30pm (LO) daily. Tel: 3202-0121 Real Hong Kong-style dim sum, with steaming trolleys rolling through the aisles and lots of Chinese-speaking patrons.

Xenlon (Shinjuku*) Prixe Fixe Dim Sum Lunch Hotel Century Southern Tower 19F 2-2-1 Yoyogi, Nishi-Shinjuku Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily. Tel: 3374-2080 Worth knowing about for their large ¥2,500 dim sum lunch, served till 4pm. It is a three-minute walk from Shinjuku station south exit Review Lunch Menu in English The Dim Sum lunch is available everyday  --  PG

Hong Kong Garden (Shinjuku) Weekend Dim Sum Nishi-Azabu 4-5-2 Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-9:30pm daily. Tel: 3486-3711 The weekend dim sum brunch is ¥3,000, and is served from 11:30am to 3pm (restaurant open until 4:30).

Daisaku (Ginza) Traditional Kanto-style Eel Restaurant #1 2-11-2 Ginza Tel: 3541-4668 Opened in 1894. Old and friendly place for eating eels. Very good.  Unagi-nakaire-don is a double sized una-don with kimo-sui, pickles and fruits are: ¥3,500. Simple una-jus are ¥1,600, ¥2,000, ¥2,500. Lunch and dinner.

Hirai (Ginza*) Traditional Kanto-style Eel Restaurant #2 3-4-18 Ginza Tel: 3567-7001 Small and familiar place for frequenters. An una-ju ¥1,400 is good, but try to have UNA-TORO-DON ¥1,300. Roasted eel in grated yam with wasabi-spice on rice. Extraordinarily tasty, but if you have an allergy to grated yam,avoid it. Open 11:30am-1:45pm and 5:30pm-8:45pm Mon-Fri, 11:30am-7pm Sat, closed Sun and holidays. Review in Japanese

Kandagawa (Ginza*) Traditional Kanto-style Eel Restaurant #3 8-14-5 Ginza B1F Tel: 3541-5401 Lunch time una-ju is ¥1,600. A large bowl una-don is ¥2,600. An eel-cook does his job at each time after orders come in. So take time. Lunch 11:00 - 14:00 Dinner 17:00 - 21:30

Nabeya Izuei (Aoyama*) Traditional Kanto-style Eel Restaurant #4 No.2 Miyachu Bldg. B1, 3-8-37 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku Tel: 3408-2889 Review in English Hours: Weekdays: 11:30 - 22:00   Closed between lunch & dinner from 14:30 - 17:00 on weekdays Closed Saturday Sundays & National Holidays: 11:30 - 21:00 Lunch is served between 11:30 - 14:30 Nearest subway station: Gaienmae Station (Ginza line) 5 min. walk

Chanko Kita-no-Fuji (Nakano*) Chanko Nabe Restaurant Nisshin Bldg B1, 1-50-4 Higashi Nakano, Nakano-ku Tel: 3362-1261 Named after the great yokozuna Kita-no-Fuji, this restaurant boasts seven different types of chanko. Kujui chanko is a must-try: 19 different ingredients such as salmon, oysters, chicken, crab, meatballs, Chinese cabbage, carrots and radish in one huge pot. The stock is made fresh every day by simmering suppon (snapping turtle or soft-shelled turtle) for more than five hours and adding nine different spices for just the right taste. Open 5-11pm daily.

Chanko Tomoji (Ryogoku*) Chanko Nabe Restaurant 3-24-4 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku Tel: 3631-4889 The soup made from miso and sesame oil makes this chanko really special. Some regular customers finish off the whole pot of soup before they finish eating the food! Open 5-10pm Mon-Sat, closed Sun and national holidays. ちゃんこ 友路 Nearest stn: JR Ryogoku, east exit.

HYOTAN-YA (Ginza) Traditional Kanto-style Eel Restaurant 1-5-13 Ginza Tel: 03-3561-5615 The authentic eel restaurant of old time. Small and familiar place. Lunch time una-ju is ¥1,200 and ¥1,500 by size of eel.

MIYAGAWA-HONTEN (Ginza) Traditional Kanto-style Eel Restaurant 3-6-1 Ginza, on 7th FL of Matsuya Department store in Ginza. Easy to eat solo.

Shinjuku UN Japanese/Korean/French fusion food Recommended by Choeki Misuzu Bldg 1F, 7-8-3 Nishi-Shinjuku Nearest stn: Shinjuku Open: 11:30am-2pm (last orders 1:30pm) Mon-Fri, 5-11pm (last orders 10pm) Mon-Wed, 5pm-12am (last orders 11pm) Thur-Sat, closed Sun Menu: Japanese Tel: 03-5338-2922 Formal Review Choeki's Review: Ah, I have a restuarant you may want to go to when you're around Shinjuku It's Japanese/Korean/French fusion food.  Portions are a little small though.  Not a formal place, but you should probably dress nice Price ranges from ¥900 to ¥2,500 per dish, ¥600 to ¥900 yen for hors de ouvres, & ¥500 yen cocktails Pretty reasonable for a "fancy" restuarant in Tokyo.  You should make reservations for a table

Zagat Website (includes Tokyo listings)

Snacks @ Tokyo Disney Resort - see Disney Resort listing in the Attractions section

Markets, Supermarkets, Breweries, Food Museums, etc. (Tokyo)

Tsukiji Fish Market* Tsukiji market may close at around 11:00AM We should try to arrive there at around 8:00AM  --  PG

Sawanoi Brewery* Location 2-770 Sawai, Ome city, Tokyo, Japan http://www.sawanoi-sake.com/ (Japanese only) Phone/Fax Phone: 0428-78-8215  Fax: 0428-78-8195 tokyo@sawanoi-sake.com Access JR Ome Line (bound for Okutama) to  Sawai Station, 5 minute walk from station. * Tachikawa Station, Ome Line (bound for Okutama, runs about every 30 minutes) Example: JR line = Tokyo Station---Chuo line---Tachikawa Station---Ome line (for Okutama)---Sawai Station Car = Chuo Expressway Hachioji Interchange, Route 411 Ome kaido Hours 10:00 a.m.to 5:00 p.m. Days closed Closed every Monday (closed Tuesday when Monday is a holiday) Reservation Required, if you wish to inspect Saka-gura.  Contact tokyo@sawanoi-sake.com with following information. 1. Name  2. Contact info  3. Number of guests (maximum 30 persons) 4. Means of transportation 5. Desired viewing time (11 a.m., 1 p.m., 2 p.m. or 3 p.m.), Good News The "Saka-gura" inspection is free of charge, and there is a place where "brewing water" can be drunk freely. Customers eating at "Mamagotoya" (reservations required) will receive a discount ticket (¥800 discounted to ¥600) to the "Sawanoi Museum of Combs and Ornamental Hairpins." English communication ranking* (You will need someone whom speaks Japanese to communicate with them) Comments: Year 2002 marks 300 years in the sake brewing business for Sawanoi since its establishment in 1702. The building itself has certain historical characteristics with a thatched roofing and plastered walls. There is an abundance of nature to enjoy during any season around Sawanoi: cherry blossoms in spring, therapeutic walks through the woods, barbecues with the family or canoeing on the Tamagawa river during summer, autumn tints in the fall, and the scenic snow in the winter. It is about a 2-hour train ride from the center of Tokyo, close enough for an enjoyable daytrip. Visitors can reserve spaces to take a tour of the sake warehouse and take part in sake tasting. However, summer is the off-season for sake brewing, so a visit during late fall (end of September) is highly recommended for those who are interested. You can also take a ride on the ropeway from Mitake station and hike in the Mitake Mountains.  There are four Sawanoi-related restaurants close by for dining.  Closed on Mondays. "Mamagotoya" Owned by Sawanoi, specializes in Tofu and Yuba cuisine. Reservations required. Tel: 0428-78-9523. Fixed menus only, prices from ¥3800 (excl. tax).  "Wappaya KURATEI" Wappa rice dishes and cafe) Reservations not required. Prices from ¥1400 (excl. tax). "Sawanoi-en" Stand-up eating. Reservations not required. Across the Tamagawa bridge on the opposite bank (approximately 20 minutes walk): "Imotoya" Rice bowl dishes, set meals and cafe. Reservations not required. Seats 70. Prices from ¥850 (excl. tax) There are four Sawanoi-affiliated restaurants close by for dining (closed on Mondays):  "Mamagotoya": specializes in tofu and Yuba cuisine. Reservations required. Tel: 0428-78-9523. Fixed menus only, prices from ¥3800~. "Wappaya Kuratei": Wappa rice dishes and coffee. Reservations not required. Prices from ¥1400~.  "Sawanoi-en": Stand-up dining. Reservations not required. Across the Tamagawa bridge on the opposite bank (approximately 20 minute walk) "Imotoya": rice bowl dishes, set meals, and coffee. Reservations not required. Seats 70. Prices from ¥850~.

Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium* Namco Namja Town, 2F, World Import Mart 1F- 3F Sunshine City, 3 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo Hours: 10:00am - 10:00pm Admission to Namja Town: Adults ¥300 Menu (Babelfish translation) Alternate write up

Yokohama Curry Museum* Come here for an education in all aspects of curry, both Japanese and international. Key areas of knowledge include history, culture, and spices. Open: 11:00 - 21:30 Close: Open year-round Contact: 045-250-0833 (Japanese) Address: 1-2-3 Isezaki-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa-ken Access: About 2 min. walk from JR Kannai Sta. Approximately 50 minutes by JR Keihin-Tohoku Line from Tokyo Station to Kan'nai Station Possible travel route: 1) Nezu station --> Nishi-nippori station via Chiyoda line 2) Nishi-nippori Station --> Kannai Station via JR KeihinTohokuNegi line ¥620

Suzuhiro Kamaboko (Fishcake) Museum* Address: 245 Kazamatsuri, Odawara-shi, Kanagawa-ken Contact: 0465-24-6262 (Japanese/English) Open: 10:00 - 17:00 Close: Late Dec. - early Jan. Description: Find out more about various types of fishcake and fishpaste through exhibits and panel displays. Watch the masters make kamaboko using a traditional method. Access: Approximately 40 minutes by JR Tokaido Shinkansen Line from Tokyo Station to Odawara Station About 7 min. by Hakone Tozan Tetsudo from Odawara Sta. to Kazamatsuri Sta. then about 1 min. walk We can make our own fishcake if we pay for classroom instruction! Classes aren't run on Wednesdays.  I think that the earlier we arrive there, the better chance we'll have of getting into one of the classes  --  PG Possible travel routes: Travel time approx. 2 hours 40 minutes 1) Nezu station --> Yoyogiuehara station via Chiyoda line 2) Yoyogiuehara --> Odawara via Odakyu Odawara Line Express ¥800 3) Odawara Station --> Kazamatsuri Station via Hakone Tozan Railway ¥180 Travel time approx 1 hour 45 minutes 1) Nezu station --> Otemachi station via Chiyoda line 2) Otemachi station --> Tokyo Station via Maronouchi line 3) Tokyo Station --> Odawara via JR Tokaido Shinkansen Line ¥3,640 4) Odawara Station --> Kazamatsuri Station via Hakone Tozan Railway ¥180 Village of boiled fish paste (Babelfish Translation) Boiled fish paste museum (Babelfish Translation) Fishcake museum map & directions (Babelfish Translation)

Kirin Yokohama Beer Village Kirin Beer Yokohama Factory, 1-17-1, Namamugi, Tsurumi-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa-ken Learn more about the history and production of beer in a relaxed atmosphere. Open: 10:00 - 17:00 Close: Every Monday (Oct.-May.), Late Dec.- early Jan. Tel: 045-503-8250 (Japanese/English) Access: About 8 min. walk from Namamugi Sta. on Keikyu Line Map in Japanese

Shinyokohama Ramen Museum* Located in Shin-Yokohama Open: 11:00a.m.~11:00p.m.(Mon~Sat) Open: 10:30a.m.~11:00p.m.(Sun and Public holiday) Last admission 10:00pm. Closed: No holiday Admission Adults (13-year-olds and up): ¥300 Travel time approx 45 minutes 1) Nezu station --> Otemachi station via Chiyoda line 2) Otemachi station --> Tokyo station via Marunouchi line 3) Tokyo Station --> Shin-Yokohama Station via JR Hikari Line ¥2,190

Rice Gallery Ginza* Address: 1 & 2F, Ginza Gas Hall Bldg., 7-9-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Open: 11:00-19:00 Close: Every Monday Contact: 03-3289-7300 (Japanese) Come here to get a clear idea of the rice-production process. Feel free to take home and try out the rice recipes provided. Possible purchases include cosmetics, ice cream and tableware--all made using rice. Access: About 3 min. walk from Subway Ginza Sta.

Suzuki Mikawaya liquor store* Address: 2-18-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan   107-0052 Open Hours: Weekdays:10am-7pm Saturday:1pm-4pm We are Japanese rice wine sake specialty shop. We have been looking for nice sake. We have many kinds of sake, and good taste sake. We searched small sake breweries. We would like you to enjoy the sake world!! Brands of Sake: Maruyama Brewery Secchuubai is recognized as “amakuchi”, sweet type. Sweet sake: 甘い為 Sweet sake, taste of  fruit: 甘い為すなわちフルーツの好み

Tokyo Convenience stores Mini Stop Stores in Tokyo (Translation via Babelfish) Lawson Station Family Mart Save On ¥100 onigiri specials (Translation via Babelfish) Seven Eleven Three F Co. Poplar AMPM Sunkus Circle K

Gotanda Convenience store Near the entrance of the Toko hotel in Gotanda is a large 24 hour convenience store.  The hotel is right outside the Train & subway station (As of 4/4/2003) I couldn't identify any exciting restaurants in Gotanda, so let's consider eating out of a convenience store for lunch, or going somplace else for food?  --  PG Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) At Nezu station, pick up the Chiyoda line (heading towards Yushima) and go to Otemachi station 3) At Otemachi station, pick up the Toei Mita line (heading towards Hibiya) and go to Mita station 4) At Mita station, transfer to the Toei Asakusa Line (heading towards Sengakuji) to Sengakuji station 5) At Sengakuji station, continue (towards Takanawadai station, NOT Shinigawa station) to Gotanda station ¥210

Tokyo Supermarket Chains http://www.itoyokado.iyg.co.jp/iy/index.htm http://www.meidi-ya.co.jp/ http://www.daiei.co.jp/ http://www.seiyu.co.jp/ http://www.maruetsu.co.jp/ http://www.summitstore.co.jp/ http://www.apita.co.jp/

Ghibli Museum*

Aquariums & Zoos

Shinagawa Aquarium 10:00-17:00, closed Tuesdays ¥1100 for adults Address: Shinagawa Kumin Park, 3-2-1 Katsushima, Shinagawa-ku Telephone 03-3762-3431 5 min. from Omori Kaigan Stn. on the Keihin Kyuko Line. About 15 min. from Omori Stn. of the JR Keihin Tohoku Line.

Sunshine City Aquarium World Import Mart Building 10F in Sunshine City (Namja Town & Gyoza Stadium are also in this building) Telephone: 03-3989-3466 Hours: 10:00 - 18:00 Sundays and Holidays: 10:00 - 18:30 July 20 - August 31: 10:00 - 20:30 Tickets are sold until 30 minutes before closing. Entrance fees: (Adults ages 16 and up, Children ages 4-15, children under 4 are free) Adults Children Aquarium only: ¥1,600 ¥800 Planetarium only: ¥800 ¥500 Observatory only: ¥620 ¥310 Aquarium and Planetarium: ¥2,100 ¥1,100 Aquarium and Observatory: ¥1,900 ¥1,000 Aquarium, Planetarium and Observatory: ¥2,400 ¥1,200 Planetarium and Observatory: ¥1,200 ¥700 Located in the Sunshine City complex in Ikebukuro, Tokyo, on the 10th floor of the "World Import Mart" (color coded pink on the maps that you can find inside the building), this aquarium is a little different from the other two Tokyo aquariums located in Odaiba and in Shinagawa. It has the easiest train access and the choice of visiting a planetarium. The observatory is a look-out like Tokyo Tower, 240 meters tall but you stand at 227 meters.

Tokyo Sea Life Park Aquarium* If they look tasty, you've been in Japan too long Open: 9:30-16:00 (doors close at 17:00) Closed: Monday Admission: ¥700 (adult), ¥250 (middle school), free (senior & child) Access: 5 min on foot from Kasai Rinkai Koen Station (JR Keiyo Line); also accessible by water bus from Hinode near Hamamatsucho Station (JR Yamanote Line) Typical Tokyoite visitors: School groups, families Best time: A clear day, for views over the Bay What to bring: Binoculars

Itabashi Ward Children's Zoo/Children's Zoo & River-water Aquarium* (within Higashi-Itabashi Park) 3-50-1 Itabashi, Itabashi-ku Tel: 3763-8003 The park which we like near to our home is the Higashi-Itabashi Park consists of Children's Zoo & River-water Aquarium which is open free to the public. We have been there almost every week. Emiri likes animals very much. The nearest train is from Itabashi-kukyakushomae which on Toei Mita Line. About 10 minutes walking distance from the station. Children's Zoo(within Higashi-Itabashi) Open: March to November: 10:00A.M. to 4:00P.M., December to February: 10:00A.M. to 4:00P.M. Closed from December 28 to January 4. This zoo has animals like ponies, goats, sheep, etc. which children are allowed to touch them, but not to feed them. There is a small pond where fishes like carps, turtles and ducks. Next to this pond there is a hamster's corner. Children are allowed to carry, stroke & play with them. They are open during these hours 10:45 to 11:15, 1:30 to 2:00 P.M. and 2:30 to 3:00 P.M. Higashi-Itabashi Park: Itabashi-ku, Tokyo Toei Mita subway line, Itabashikuyakushomae station. (10 min. walk) / 7 minute walk from Itabashi Kuyakushomae Station on the TOEI Mita line (crosses the JR Yamanote line at Sugamo station.) Higashi-Itabashi Park - Three outdoor pools for children of varying ages an sizes open from about July 21 to about August 28. CLOSED FOR ALL OR PART OF OBAN HOLIDAYS so call and check! 10:00 - 16:00. Entrance is FREE. 3-50-1 Itabashi, Itabashi-ku Tel: 03-3962-8419 (Japanese only)

Museums

Japanese Sword Museum 9:00-16:00, closed Mondays Admission: ¥525 Telephone 03-3379-1386 Address  4-25-10 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku Pamphlets are available: "Manual of how to handle and take care of swords" and "Manual for appreciating the Japanese sword" 10 min. from Sangubashi Stn. on the Odakyu Line. 10 min. from Hatsu-dai Stn. on the Keio New Line.   Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) Nezu to Otemachi via Chiyoda line 3) Otemachi to Aoyama-itchome via Hanzomon line 4) Aoyama-itchome to Yoyogi via Toei Oedo line

Sumo Museum Sumo Hakubutsukan 1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-Ku Tokyo Phone: (81) 3622 0366 10:00AM - 4:30PM Monday through Friday RYOGOKU sta.: JR 1-min. walk Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) At Nezu station, pick up the Chiyoda line (heading towards Yushima) and go to Otemachi station 3) At Otemachi station, pick up the Tozai line (heading towards Nihombashi) to Monzen-nakacho station 4) At Monzen-nakachoe station, transfer to the Toei Oedo Line (heading towards Kiyosumi-shirakawa) to Ryogoku station ¥170

Drum Museum Taikokan* 2-1-1 Nishi Asakusa, Taito-ku Admission: ¥300 adults. Tel: 3842-5622 Drum Museum Taikokan presents a hands-on exhibit of drums from around the world. Very small but interesting personal collection, housed upstairs in a traditional festival costume-and-instrument store in an old district of Asakusa.  It is on the fourth floor. Hours: Wednesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm Nearest Subway station: Tawaramachi station (shown at map on right), Ginza subway line You can see not only drums from Japan, including a really big taiko drum but drums from all over the world. And best, of all, kids can try them out. It's on the fourth floor of the store -- CG It's looks like it's opposite the ROX department store in Asakusa  --  PG

Aoi Art Sword and armor store in Tokyo It might be located next to a sword ("ken") museum  --  PG 4-22-11 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0053 TEL 011-81-3-3375-5553 FAX 011-81-3-3375-5459 -- Kazushige Tsuruta

NEZU INSTITUTE OF FINE ARTS* 6-5-1, Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku Tokyo 107-0062, JAPAN TEL: 81-3-3400-2536 FAX: 81-3-3400-2436 General Information Temporary exhibitions are held in the Heisei Gallery. For some of these a special admission charge is made. Permanent collections are exhibited in the Showa Gallery and are changed on a regular basis. Opening hours Tuesday to Sunday : 9:30-16:30. Closed on Mondays(except National Holidays),days following National Holidays, and during the Year-end and New Year's period. Nearest Subway station: Omotesando station (Chiyoda line) Cafe The Cafe Gazebo offers a variety of drinks in comfortable and relaxed surroundings. Parking Free but limited to museum visitors. Museum Shop Books, postcards, posters, replicas of objects and other items are available at the shop in the Main Hall. Photography Photography is not permitted in the Museum Lectures Talks about the exhibition. For details regarding talks about the exhibition and other special events,please ask at the desk in the Main Hall. How to get to the Nezu Institute of Fine Arts The Museum is located south of route 246. Public transit routes include the nearby Omotesando underground station and Minami-Aoyama 6-Chome bus stop. Admission fees General admission Adults: ¥1,000 Students: ¥700 Reduced fees are available for groups of over twenty people.

Amusement Parks (outside of Tokyo)

Wild Blue Indoor Water Park, Yokohama* Tsurumi-Ku, Heian-Cho 2-28-2 Open: 10:00AM - 9:00PM Closed: Fridays Review Alternate Review   Take the JR Keihin-Tohoku line to Kawasaki station. Go to the east exit. There you will find bus stop #2 on platform #14. Wait for the Wild Blue Yokohama Express bus, or if your Japanese language skills are up to snuff, and you don't feel like waiting for the express, you could also take any one of the other buses that come to bus stop #2 and listen carefully for the instructions on where to transfer. Tel (English?): 045-511-2323 Tel: (Defunct phone number?): 045-506-5527 ¥6,000 - ¥10,000 / person, depending on what equipment we rent

Seagaia Ocean Dome http://www.seagaia.co.jp/amusement_e.htm

Miyazaki Prefecture Ocean Dome - Review http://www.gluckman.com/IndoorBeach.html

Miyazaki Prefecture Ocean Dome - Review http://home.netvigator.com/~pchk/Miyazaki.html

Pachinko in Shinjuku*
Shinjuku is doubtless the world headquarters for pachinko.  There are pachinko parlors, it seems, on every corner!  Harajuku has zero, but Shinjuku and Shibuya are awash in them.  Ten minutes after the workday is finished, these parlors are overflowing.

Tsukiji Fish Market - see Food

Shopping

Pokèmon Center* Weekends at the business district of Nihonbashi in Tokyo tend to be quiet, except for one store specializing in Pokemon goods that has been pulling in huge crowds. Its proprietor correctly gauged that by locating in a convenient spot near Tokyo station, a huge junction of both local and long-distance train and bus lines, the store--Pokemon Center Tokyo--would draw visitors from throughout the country. The shop, which opened for business in April 1998, attracts around 1,500 visitors daily during the weekdays and anywhere from 3,000 to 4,000 on the weekends. It is so popular that it sometimes has to limit the number of people entering the store at one time. Over summer vacation customers waited for up to two hours for a chance to shop, and during the Christmas season in 1999 as well, the wait was about an hour. The store sells some 1,500 products that include game cards, stationery, and even confectioneries. Some of its most popular items are original goods, unavailable elsewhere, designed with images of Pokemon characters Pikachu, Charmander, and Poliwhirl--the store's mascots.

Comic Toranoana* Comic Toranoana (Tiger's Den) has four different stores in Akihabara and one in Ikebukuro ( all parts of Tokyo). They sell manga, doujinshi, telephone cards, garage kits and models, hobby supplies, doujin-soft and other related merchandise. They have new and used products. Japanese site: http://www.toranoana.co.jp

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   ++                                         A = Laox
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 Soubu                                        D = T-Zone Minami
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Tokyo Dome City* 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 112-8562 Tokyo Dome City shelters more than 10 restaurants and souvenir shops inside and outside of the main building. 1 min. walk from any of the following: JR Chuo line Suidobashi station/Tokyo Subway/Marunouchi line or Nanboku line Korakuen Station/Tokyo Subway Mita line Suidobashi station Korakuen Amusement Park La Qua Amusement Park w/ Shops Shops & Restaurants in English

Daiso 100 Yen Plaza* Udagawacho 27-4, Shibuya-ku 03-5459-3601 Open daily 11am-11pm. Walk up Dogenzaka from Shibuya station, turn right at 109 and walk toward Tokyu Honten. 100 Yen Plaza is on your right. Shibuya Savvy tourists and long-time residents are heading to 100 Yen Plaza in Shibuya for all their souvenirs. On the 3rd floor of this ultra-cheap department store you can find wabi-sabi ceramics, ramen bowls, lacquerware miso-soup bowls, fancy chopsticks, traditional toys, good-luck cat figures, paper lanterns, even fake cherry blossoms. All the exotic things you need to buy for those obscure relatives or unexpected friends you run into on a trip home. Any day of the week, the store is full of Russian and Taiwanese tourists stocking up on the good stuff because it's so cheap. The 100 Yen Plaza is a bargain department store. There are five floors of goods, arranged like a classy Ginza department store: plastics on the 4th floor, gardening goods (flowerpots, lattice frames, even bags of soil!) on the 3rd, kitchenware on the 2nd, etc. And just like Isetan, the food floor is in the basement. The "plastic" floor has stationery and kitchenware in a rainbow of pastel shades and clear plastic. The huge stationery section has ring binders, folders, and multi-sleeve photo holders in all sizes from postcard to A4 - stuff that retails for 5 times the price in regular stores. They also have plastic kitchen containers and bento boxes in a range of acid colors. Other floors are similarly well stocked. The first floor carries party goods and games, accessories and cosmetics. Here's your chance to pick up party masks of disgraced presidents and horror film characters. Local teenage girls load up their shopping baskets with essential makeup products like fake tear drops, tattoo transfers and stick-on eyelashes in Yves Klein blue. Why pay many times the price for the same stuff in trendy stores - when you can find the real generic no-brand version at 100 Yen Plaza?

Animate* 3-2-1 Ikebukuro, Toshima-Ku Animate is located in Ikebukuro near the Sunshine 60 building Anime events @ Animate (Babelfish translation) Web Store: http://www.animate-shopping.co.jp/

Tokyo Oroshuri Center* http://www.toc.co.jp/map/images/mapenglish.gif Located in Gotanda Tel: 03-3494-2200 8 MIN walk from Gotanda (JR Yamanote Line OR Subway Asakusa Line) 6 MIN walk from Fudo-Mae (Tokyu Meguro Line) 5 MIN walk from Osaki-Hirokouji (Tokyu Ikegami Line) Listing of Shops (translation) They both retail and wholesale TOC may have a market or a depaato on weekends, selling retail space to individual retailers: "it's well known and 120,000 people visit it every four days." Event schedule: Excite.co.jp translation A season is not asked but large-scale selling meetings including a department store are mainly held at the weekend. There is 120,000 or more people's ... actual result in four days, and it has become a general consumer with the hall where the degree of cognition is very high. You can use various selling meetings for uses various a maximum of 2,000 tsubos from a minimum of 40 tsubos by demand of a visitor.

Mandarake Their main store appears to be in Nakano Nakano Store* 5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3228-0007 Akihabara Store* Rock2 Bldg 5F, 3-11-2 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo Shibuya Store* Shibuya Beam B2, 31-2 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

Hakuhinkan Toy Park* 8-8-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Tel: 03-3571-8008. Nearest station: Shimbashi (TRTA Ginza line), across from Ginza 9. Open 11am-8pm daily. A nine-floor tower of toys in the heart of the city, Hakuhinkan Toy Park is a black hole that sucks up pocket money and generous grown-ups' hard-earned yen. The fun starts in the basement with the Club 67 boutique, where Licca-chan and Jenny doll enthusiasts can pick up the trendy Pregnant Licca-chan, which includes a card you send to the manufacturer in return for a baby and a key to deflate the doll's stomach. Also on the underground level are a Ticket Pia and Ticket Park, selling seats for the Japanese shows performed at the in-store theater on the top floor. Four other capacious floors are stacked high with toys, with the store's selection of video games and jigsaw puzzles on the third floor and Japanese dolls and teddy bears on the second floor being among the best in the capital. Before taking home your bundles of joy, refuel at the fifth- and sixth-floor tempura, Italian, sumiyaki, sushi or steak restaurants. Map (in Japanese)

Yuzawaya* 8-23-5 Nishi-Kamata, Ota-ku. Tel: 3738-4141 or 3734-0010. Nearest station: Kamata, south exit. JR Keihin Tohoku, Tokyu Meguro or Ikegami lines. Open 10am-7pm daily. If you're a progressive parent, and like to give your kids something constructive to do, making the trip to Kamata is a must. Yuzawaya doesn't fit into the standard category of a toy store; it's more a craft-supply complex with more than ten multistory outlets selling art, needlework, hobby supplies, stationery and knickknacks. Myriad displays of everything from paper, brushes, beads and fabric to noren panels and silk flowers-the list is never-ending-are sure to get your offspring's gray matter churning with activity. Adults are also sure to be spellbound and might even be inspired to take up collage, batik or watercolor-be warned! For ¥500, you can get a Yuzawaya members' card entitling you to discounts at any store in the complex. But be sure to bring cash, as credit cards are not accepted, and remember to pay for items on the floor on which they are displayed. Sounds like Pearl Paint & Supply in Woodbridge  --  PG Possible travel route: 1) Walk to Nezu station 2) Nezu station --> Nishi-nippori station via Chiyoda line 3) Nishi-Nippori Station --> Kamata station via JR Keihin Tohoku-Negishi Line ¥380 4) Yuzawaya is within walking distance of JR Kamata Station

Yamashiroya* Near the Ueno JR Station Tel: 3831-2320 Address ends with 6-14-6 Nearest station: Ueno (TRTA Hibiya line) If you don’t want your significant other watching what you buy at Yamashiroya, let them wander around the Ameya Yokocho shopping district. Ameya Yokocho has everything from dried fish to expensive wallets.

Toys "R" Us Shop listings (in English) There are few foreign residents of Tokyo unfamiliar with the format of the world's most famous toy store chain. Its irresistible formula of all imaginable playthings under one roof at hard-to-beat prices has established Toys "R" Us as a firm favorite of Joe Public on this side of the Pacific, too. Recently the chain has been making a big push into the collectors' market, but it took striking exclusive deals with domestic toy manufacturers and importers and collaborating on special models to finally make the grade with toy nerds in Japan. With 42 stores in the Kanto region there's sure to be one these massive warehouses within easy access. The Isogo and Minato Mirai branches also contain Studio Alice photo studios where you can get all that sweetness and light dolled up (traditional Japanese costumes are available) and captured on celluloid. Toys "R" Us, Sunshine City Ikebukuro* 3-1, Higashiikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo 170-0013 Tel: 03-3983-5400 Toys "R" Us, Odaiba* 1-7-1, Daiba, Minato-ku, Tokyo 135-8707 Tel: 03-5564-5011

Research: Knife stores Shuko Cutlery 3-4-2, Nishi-Kasai, Edogawa-ku, Tokyo, 134-0088 Tel: 03-3869-4687 Business hours     9:30AM - 5:30PM Closed on Tuesday and a public holidays Excite.co.jp translation T[s]ukiji Masamoto 4-9-9, Tsukiji, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, 104-0045 market bridge case Tel: (03) 3541-6880 (03) 3541-8000 Central market yard store Tel: (03) 3541-7155 Closed:     Sunday, celebration national holiday Business hours 6:00AM - 3:00PM Knife style synopsis Excite.co.jp translation Map:

Aoyama Oval Plaza* Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) At Nezu station, pick up the Chiyoda line (heading towards Yushima) and go to Omotesando station 3) Aoyama Oval Plaza is within walking distance of Omotesando station Where Aoyama Oval Plaza  5-52-2 Jingumae Shibuya-ku Tokyo When 6:00-sunset Held the 3rd Sat. of every month  Information It will be held even if it rains. Getting There 5 minutes walk from Omotesando station (Hanzomon, Ginza,  Chiyoda lines), Next to Kodomono-Shiro (National Children's Castle),  across from Aoyama Gakuin University.	Arai Yakushi-ji Antique Market* Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) At Nezu station, pick up the Chiyoda line (heading towards Yushima) and go to Otemachi station 3) At Otemachi station, pick up the Tozai line (heading towards ?) and go to Takadanobaba station 4) At Takadanobaba Station, transfer to the privately run Seibu Shinjuku Line (heading towards ?) and go to Araiyakushimae Station ¥140 5) Arai Yakushi Temple is within walking distance of Arai-Yakushi-Mae Station Where Arai Yakushi Temple 5-3-5 Arai, Nakano-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3386-1355 When 8th 18th and 28th of every month. Dawn to dusk. Information N/A Getting There 5 minutes from Arai-yakushi-mae station on the Seibu Shinjuku Line.
Iidabashi Ramura* Where Iidabashi Ramura  1-1 Kawagishi Chiyoda-ku Tokyo  When 6:00-sunset Held the 1st Sat. of every month  Information (It's held even if it's raining)  Getting There Right near Iidabashi station(JR, Tozai, Nanboku, Yu-rakucho lines),  It is in the shopping center Iidabashi Ramura Central Plaza.	Ueno Park Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) At Nezu station, pick up the Chiyoda line (heading towards Sendagi) and go to Kita-senju station 3) At Kita-senju station, pick up the Hibiya line (heading towards Minami-senju) and go to Ueno station 4) Ueno Park is within walking distance of Ueno station Where Ueno park  2 Ueno Kouen Taito-ku Tokyo Autumn  Antique Market Autumn antique market --Aki Matsuri (Autumn festival)  October 1 - October 31 9:00 - sunset  It's held even if it rains. Aozora Kottoichi, Open air antique fair takes place around Shinobazu pond in Ueno Park from 9 a.m. to sunset. About 50 stalls are set up around the pond. Getting There Near Ueno station (JR, Ginza lines), Keisei Ueno station  (Keisei Hon line). It is held near Shinobazu Pond.
	Roppongi Antique Fair* Travel route from Arai Yakushimai Station: 1) Walk to Arai-Yakushi-Mae Station 2) At Arai-Yakushi-Mae station, pick up the privately run Seibu Shinjuku Line (heading towards ? ) and go to Nakai Station 3) At Nakai station, transfer to the Toei Oedo line (heading towards Higashi-nakano) and go to Roppongi station ¥260 4) Roi Roppongi Building is within walking distance of Roppongi station Where Roppongi Antique Fair in Roi Roppongi Bildg.  Roi Roppongi Bldg. Entrance 5-5-1 Roppongi Minato-ku Tokyo  When Held the 4th Thursday and Friday of every month 7:00-17:00  Information For more info contact 03-3583-2081 (Daishin-shokai)  Getting There 5-6 minutes walk from Roppongi station (Hibiya line).  Go down along Gaien Higashi Dori (Street).

Daimaru http://www.daimaru.co.jp/english/tokyo.html http://www.daimaru.co.jp/english/ Located adjacent to Tokyo Station To Get Consumption Tax Exemption On the day of your purchase, please take the receipt for the goods purchased at Daimaru Tokyo store on the same day and your passport to the Tax Exemption Counter on the 7th floor. Please note that consumption tax cannot be refunded on consumable goods such as foods, cigarettes, cosmetics, films, dry batteries and medicines and goods totaling 10,000 yen or less, tax excluded. For diplomats, a Tax Free Card is required.	Mitsukoshi http://www.mitsukoshi.co.jp/ Locations in Ginza near Kabuki-ZA, Ikebukuro, Nihombashi/Kyobashi (adjacent to Mitsukoshimae subway station) Visit the food department in the basement of Japanese department store, Kyobashi Mitsukoshi. The whole floor showcases cooking ingredients, prepared foods, baked goods and sweets to beverages, all of which are popular daily items in Japan. Among these food items, you will find Chinese, Italian, French, Indian, and Southeast Asian, as well as a huge variety of Japanese dishes.
ROX http://www.rox.co.jp Located in Asakusa Open from 10:30AM - 9:00PM everyday	SOGO http://www.sogo-gogo.com/ Located in Ginza, near Yurakucho station (see mini-map)
	Tobu http://www.tobu.co.jp/depart/ Locations in Ikebukuro (see map)
	Takashimaya http://www.takashimaya.co.jp/ Located in Nihombashi (see subway book)
	Hankyu http://www.hankyu-dept.co.jp/ Locationed in Ginza near Yurakucho station (see mini-map)
Seibu http://www.seibu.co.jp/ Locations in Ikebukuro, Shibuya (see maps), & Ginza near Yurakucho station (see mini-map)	Loft http://www.loft.co.jp/ Located in Shibuya
Odakyu http://www.odakyu-dept.co.jp/ Located in Shinjuku (see Map)	Keio Department Store http://www.keionet.com/ Locations unknown
Matsuya http://www.matsuya.com/ Located in Ginza near Kabuki-ZA	ISETAN http://www.isetan.co.jp/ Located in Shinjuku (see Map)
Wako http://www.wako.co.jp/ Located in Ginza near Kabuki-ZA	Matsuzakaya http://www.matsuzakaya.co.jp/ Located in Ginza near Kabuki-ZA

Nakamise* Between the famous red lantern at Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) and the main hall of Senso-Ji Temple is a path lined with colorful shops selling souvenirs that include such specialty treats and sweets as Kaminari-okoshi and Ningyo-yaki. Ningyo-yaki are small Japanese cakes with sweet beans filling. Try a fresh made ningyo-yaki at Nakamise street. Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) At Nezu station, pick up the Chiyoda line (heading towards Sendagi) and go to Kita-senju station 3) At Kita-senju station, pick up the Hibiya line (heading towards Minami-senju) and go to Ueno station 4) At Ueno station, pick up the Ginza line (heading towards Inaricho) and go to Asakusa station 5) Senso-Ji temple is within walking distance of Asakusa station

Ueno Ameya Yokocho* This is a shopping street that runs from Ueno's Chuo-dori down to Okachimachi by the side of the railway line. The dense array of shops along the street is truly amazing: they sell everything from fresh food produce to famous designer brand products at bargain prices. This lively street constantly echoes with the lively calls of the shopkeepers, doing their utmost to attract customers with low prices and offers of further mark-downs. Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) At Nezu station, pick up the Chiyoda line (heading towards Sendagi) and go to Kita-senju station 3) At Kita-senju station, pick up the Hibiya line (heading towards Minami-senju) and go to Ueno station 4) Ueno Ameya Yokocho is right outside Ueno station

International Arcade* If you are looking for one-stop shopping for happi coats, kimonos, imitation swords, pearls and other items, visit the many shops at the International Arcade. Most are open by 11 am, and some stay open as late as 9 pm. The arcade is located underneath the JR train tracks, right next to the Imperial Hotel in Yurakucho. Prices are reasonable, and most major credit cards are accepted. Many of the merchants speak some English. Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) At Nezu station, pick up the Chiyoda line (heading towards Yushima) and go to Hibiya station 3) Hibiya station is within walking distance of the International Arcade

Kappabashi* (Kitchen Town) When you go into a Japanese restaurant, the menu is displayed as plastic food in the window. Go to Kappabashi street in Asakusa where you can see store after store with displays of fake food (and buy some to take home as a souvenir). Kappabashi (or Kitchen Town as some people call it) is a place in Tokyo near Asakusa that is about 8 city blocks of nothing but restaurant supply stores. Basically if you are running a restaurant then you can find everything you need in Kappabashi.

Events occuring during the current month

Cruises

Sumo Wrestling

http://www.sumo.or.jp/eng/flame/index.php?p=/eng/kyokai/ticket/index.html

Kabuki Theatre

Kabuki-ZA Theatre* Tickets http://www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza/theater/ticket-ordering.html Reservations : 81-3-5565-6000 4-12-5 GINZA, CHUO-KU TOKYO Admission: ¥16,800(1st floor box seat) ¥ 14,700. ¥10,500. ¥4,200. ¥2,520 Tickets can be ordered by telephone or at the theater box office. (Box office is open 10:00a.m.-6:00p.m. everyday) The credit card is available at the Box Office Window. Matinees 11:00AM - 3:45PM Evening shows 4:30PM - 9:00PM Notice:The times are subject to change month by month according to the length of the performances.Please see our Monthly Info. Notice: The special new year performance and summer performance are subject to change in admission prices.

"English Earphone Guide" provides comment and explanations relating to the plot, music, actors, properties and other features of Kabuki which are available for a small rental fee. Language is no problem at Kabukiza. To help non-Japanese speaking audience appreciate the plays, the theater provides an excellent Kabuki guide, who through earphones, explains in English the threads of the dramas and conventions unique to Kabuki. The earphone rent is ¥650, plus ¥1,000 security deposit. Discount coupons (two) are available for ¥1,100. The security deposit is refunded when the earphone kit is returned. English-language program costs ¥1,000.

The Kabuki-Za theater is very close to the Higashi Ginza Station on the TRTA Hibiya and Toei Asakusa subway lines.   From Tokyo stn.  =  =  10 minutes/Taxi 15 minutes/Subway Ginza main intersection = 5 minutes/Walk Shinjuku stn. = 30 minutes/Subway 4-12-5 GINZA, CHUO-KU TOKYO

http://www.shochiku.co.jp/play/index.html
http://www.kabuki-za.co.jp/
http://www.kabuki-za.co.jp/english/guide.html
http://www.kabuki-za.co.jp/english/history.html
http://www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza/theater/index.html
http://www.shochiku.co.jp/shinsangokushi/
http://www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza/theater/ear-phone-guide.html

Imperial Palace, Shrines, Tourist attractions

Imperial Palace* in Chiyoda-ku The Imperial Palace itself is closed all but two days of the year. The garden and grounds are open to the public year-round. The palace is within walking distance of Tokyo Station (accessible by both Subway and Japan Rail trains).

Senso-Ji Temple* in Asakusa 2-3-1 Asakusa Taito-ku Tokyo Phone: 3842-0181 Admission: Free Open: Always open Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) At Nezu station, pick up the Chiyoda line (heading towards Sendagi) and go to Kita-senju station 3) At Kita-senju station, pick up the Hibiya line (heading towards Minami-senju) and go to Ueno station 4) At Ueno station, pick up the Ginza line (heading towards Inaricho) and go to Asakusa station 5) Senso-Ji temple is within walking distance of Asakusa station

Meiji Shrine* in Shibuya 1-1 Kamizono-cho, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku Shrine Hours: Daily, dawn to dusk Jingu Naien Garden: Daily, 09:00-16:30 One of Japan's finest examples of Shinto architecture, the atmospheric Meiji Shrine is tucked away in the centre of a dark, cool forest, an unexpected oasis in the centre of the city. Passing through a vast wooden torii gate, the visitor follows the wide gravel path through the forest and into the shrine precincts. Completed in 1920, the shrine honours the memory of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, under whose reign Japan rapidly modernised and reopened to the outside world. On weekends, it is often possible to see a traditional wedding procession and the precincts are one of the best places to witness the finery and festivities of New Year, Coming of Age Day (January 15) and the children's festival Shichi-Go-San (weekends around November 15). The Jingu Naien Garden in the shrine grounds is well worth visiting in June for the spectacular displays of irises. Meiji-jingu shrine is within walking distance of Gaiemmae station (TRTA Ginza line). The National Noh theatre may also be near the shrine.  --  PG

Gokokuji Temple Buddhist Temple in Tokyo Possible travel route: 1) Walk from hotel to Nezu station 2) At Nezu station, pick up the Chiyoda line (heading towards Yushima) and go to Otemachi station 3) At Otemachi station, pick up the Tozai line (heading towards Takebashi) to Iidabashi station 4) At Iidabashi station, pick up the Yurakucho line (heading towards Edogawabashi) to Gokokuji station 5) Gokokuji Temple is within walking distance of Gokokuji station

Tokyo Tower*

Buying your tickets can be confusing - tickets for the "main" gallery are bought from the ticket booths on the first floor. Tickets for the "special" gallery are bought from the booths located in the "main" gallery. In other words you have to buy a "main" gallery ticket in order to go up to the "special" gallery.

Having negotiated your ticket, you'll find the stiff, smartly dressed lift operators make the lift ride up to the "main" gallery all the more entertaining. Once out, a loud musical accompaniment will get you in the mood, or even a mood - it's quite likely to be the Carpenters. However the view is spectacular - Mount Fuji, Ginza, Tokyo Bay and Yokohama.

Inside the tower, there are also a number of amusements and attractions. On the first floor there's an aquariumcontaining 50,000 fish! However, before entering assess value for money. The fish are very small, and the ticket price not so - adults ¥800!

The Mysterious Walking Zone of Hologram Technology and the Wax Works Museum are perhaps better value. These are on the third floor. The museum costs ¥870 for adults and ¥460 for children. The Mysterious Walking Zone is ¥410 for adults and ¥300 for children. Finally, on the fourth floor there's the Trick Art Gallery full of strange, funny and curious 3D images. This is ¥400 for adults and ¥300 for children.

A shopping arcade and restaurants are on the first and second floors
OPENING TIMES

Observation galleries: 9:00 am to 8:00pm from March 16th to July 30th
9:00 am to 9:00pm from August 1st to August 31st
9:00 am to 8:00pm from September 1st to November 15th
9:00 am to 7:00pm from November 16th to March 15th

The attractions open one hour later at 10:00.

Odaiba*

Odaiba was a vacant stretch of reclaimed land until just a few years ago, but now an amazing selection of entertainment and exhibition facilities have made Odaiba the most popular leisure destination in Tokyo. Serving Odaiba is the Yurikamome Line, a fully computerized unmanned train service taking in Rainbow Bridge, which offers superb views of waterfront Tokyo and its ultramodern architecture

Jewish stuff in Tokyo

Tokyo Synagogue

The Jewish Community of Japan in Tokyo was established forty five years ago primarily by refugees from Russia and Europe, most of whom had been in Shanghai during the last years of World War II. Nearly all of the founding members have either moved elsewhere or died. A majority of the members today are from the United States with a large group from Israel. A full synagogue program is offered with social and cultural activities, adult education and a religious school with forty flve students. An Israel Culture Center, sponsored by the Israel Embassy, is housed at the Jewish Community Center.
Beth David Synagogue/Jewish Community Center Is located at 3-8-8 Hiroo, Shibuya ku, Tokyo. The phone is 81 3-3400 2559; Fax is 81 3 3400 1827. Rabbi James Lebeau has been Rabbi since June 1993. A mikveh is located within the JCC. Shabbat services are at 6:30 p.m. on Friday (7:00 pm. during the sumrner) with Shabbat dinner served for those with advance reservations. There is no daylight savings time in Japan so candle lighting is earlier than most other locations. Shabbat morning services are at 9:30 a.m. with a kiddush lunch served. Shabbat Minchah follows Kiddush. The synagogue uses the Orthodox Birnbaum Siddur and the services are strictly traditional. Because this is the only synagogue in Tokyo there is a mechitza section for men, a mechitza section for women with another section of the synagogue for mixed seating.
The kitchen is a strictly Kosher fleishig kitchen with Glatt Kosher meat imported from the United States. Empire Chickens are used. The kitchen is under the supervision of Rabbi Lebeau who is a graduate of The Jewish Theological Seminary of America (conservatlve). Take out meals can be ordered in advance. Details are available through the JCC office. The Board or the JCC is eager to welcome guests. Visitors should contact the JCC office to learn of hotels within walking distance and to receive a map to the JCC. list of Kosher fish is also available in Japanese and English.
A Sephardie Orthodox synagogue is located in Kobe, Japan and offers Shabbat morning services. For more information, contact the President Simon Elmaleh at phone 078 593 9391 and Fax 078 261 9464.

Kosher eating
There are a few supermarkets in Tokyo where they stock US foods with hechsher (cereal, pasta, canned sardines, condiments, 750ml bottle of Gamla white/red, etc). One is National Azabu and the other Meidi-ya, both  located in Hiroo area near JCC. JCC also carries frozen kosher meat (Mt. Sinai) and poultry (Empire Chicken). Local milk sometimes can be fortified/adulterated with Vitamin-D, which may be derived from whale or other non-kosher marine products in Japan. Whole milk is OK, but the difference is hard to tell unless you can read labels. (If the box on the side of a carton has an alphabet D, skip it!)
Yogurts in small cups very often contains gelatine (though unsweetened ones in large tubs seem ok, of course not cholov yisroel).
Phillies cream cheese come in two versions: US with O-K, and Australian one without hechsher. Ditto for Haagen-Datz ice cream: a pint-size and individual bars made/packaged in US with O-U, individual cups packed locally without hechsher. Some packaged tofu may use styrene-based stabilizer, while one sold at health stores mostly seem OK. Many US brand products are licensed to Japanese manufacturers.
Westin Tokyo is the closest hotel to JCC (luxury, about 15 min. walk) from JCC

Jews of Japan http://www.jcpa.org/jl/jl425.htm

Tokyo Festivals & Cultural Attractions

Nerima Matsuri in Tokyo* Sunday October 17th, 2004  (date confirmed on 7/30/2004) 2003 Festival link Parade, interactive events, and lots of vendors Nerima Festival URLs: http://www.city.nerima.tokyo.jp/festival/index.html Babelfish translation Warning: Horrible Western-style drawing of vegetable-people awaits. (shudder) Map of Nerima & surrounding locales (Warning, lots of images -- PG): http://www.stormbringer.org/pers/siaru/ref/nerimamap.html

Minato Citizen's Festival* Oct. 9 & 10 2004 (Sat. & Sun) (dates confirmed 10/4/2004) Sunday 10/10/2004 hours: 10 A.M. to 4 P.M.

Autumn Hitotsugi Fair The fair does not appear to be going on in 2004 Akasaka Hitotsugi-dori Avenue Shopping District Promotion Association This fair is also known as the "Autumn Harvest Festival." There will be "trolley sales" and sales of fresh vegetables from farms in Akasaka-cho in Okayama Prefecture. Oct. 27?, 28? & 29? 2004 (Wed., Thur. & Fri.), 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. All around Akasaka Hitotsugi Street (short walk from Akasakamitsuke Station or Akasaka Station) Check date listings on this website before going

Culture Day* November 3 During the Meiji Era, people celebrated the November 3 birthday of Emperor Meiji (1852-1912) by designating it as the nation's Culture Day. This tradition continues to live in modern Japan, with the grand annual celebration centering on Meiji Jingu, the shrine dedicated to him. Of everybody's interest would be the demonstration of traditional Japanese archery near the shrine's Treasure Museum and the Yabusame archery on horseback Show in the vicinity of the Shibaike along the shrine's western approach. Admission: Free Address      Meiji Jingu Shrine  1-1 Kaminozonocho, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku Tokyo Phone +81 (0)3 3379 5511 Hours November 3, 5:40AM - 5:20PM

People Watching in Harajuku* Cosplayers hang out around the Harajuku train station on Sundays --  PG Choeki: Hm, you guys set some time aside to gawk at the loli-goths on sunday in Hara-juku, right?

Festivals around Tokyo, listed based on the current date in English

Japanese Fall Festival Calendar in English
Japan is in the most beautiful season, autumn, which is the time for the regional autumn festivals (matsuri). Most of the autumn festivals in Japan are related to the harvest, but there are many different types of festivals held throughout the country. The following are festivals held in October and November. I hope you can visit some of them while you are in Japan.

Minato-ku Autumn Festivals List in English

Minato-ku festivals around the year in English

Tokyo Disney Resort* Tokyo Disney Resort (English) Open every day 10:00AM - 6:00PM September - March May be closed Tuesdays during September through November Legend: Food  Attraction  Shopping  Live Entertainment   Tokyo Disneyland (3rd party review)     World Bazaar (3rd party reviews: Area Attractions Food Shopping)       Restaurant Hokusai (traditional Japanese meals)      Confectionary (sells chocolates, nuts, & candies)       Candy Wagon (sells candy and other sweets)       Grand Emporium (sells gifts, keepsakes, & plush)       The Toy Kingdom (sells BDSM equipment, all the princesses shop there) just kidding!       Mickey's Moderne Memories (sells collectibles "from around the world")       Magic Shop (sells magic tricks, puzzles, games, & props)       Victoria's Jewelry Box (sells jewelry)       The Disney Gallery (sells "a special collection of merchandise)       Disney & Co. (sells gifts)     Tomorrowland (3rd party reviews: Area Attractions Food Shopping)      Space Mountain [FastPass] (rollercoaster)       Microadventure! [FastPass] (3D show)       Starcade (video game arcade)       StarJets (flying ride)       Grand Circuit Raceway (Slot cars)       Buzz Lightyear's Astro Blasters (Just opened April 2004 - shoot lasers at the Bad Guys!)       Soft Landing (has Earl Grey [!] soft serve ice cream)       Stellar Sweets (sells candy and other sweets)       Solar Ray's Light Supplies (sells event related good & other stuff)     Toontown (3rd party reviews: Area Attractions Food Shopping)       Gadget's Go Coaster (shortest ride in all Disney!)       Roger Rabbit's Car Toon Spin       Chip 'n Dale's Treehouse       Goofy's Bounce House (Assuming we're not too big to go in)       Mickey's Trailer (has spring rolls)       Toontown Delivery Company (sells Toontown gift items & novelties)       Gag Factory/Toontown Five & Dime ("Hilarious gifts and Disney merchandise)     Fantasyland (3rd party reviews: Area Attractions Food Shopping)       Peter Pan's Flight       Dumbo The Flying Elephant (flying ride)       Haunted Mansion       Alice's Tea Party       Pooh's Hunny Hunt [FastPass]       Village Pastry (has Tipo Torta, sauce-filled stick pastry. Sauce fillings change seasonally)       Fantasy Gifts (sells Disney character toys, books, & gifts)       The AristoCats (sells Disney character toys, books, & gifts)       The Glass Slipper (sells blown glass)       The Mad Hatter (sells hats)       Pleasure Island Candies (sells chocolates, nuts, & candies)       Stromboli's Wagon (sells Disney character gifts & novelties)       Pooh Corner (sells Winnie the Pooh merchandise)     Critter Country (3rd party reviews: AreaAttractions Food Shopping)       Splash Mountain [FastPass]       Beaver Brothers Explorer Canoes (closes at Dusk)       Hoot & Holler Hideout (sells woodcrafts & apparel)     Westernland (3rd party reviews: AreaAttractions Food Shoppin)       Westernland Shootin' Gallery       Big Thunder Mountain (rollercoaster)       Plaza Pavillion Restaurant (Buffeteria w/ pork, chicken, & seafood entrees)       The Canteen (has milkshakes)       General Store (sells candy, coffee, snacks, & imported sweets)       Country Bear Bandwagon (sells gifts, plush, & novelties)    Adventureland (3rd party reviews: Area Attractions Food Shopping)       Jungle Cruise       Swiss Family Treehouse       The Enchanted Tiki Room       Crystal Palace Restaurant (Buffeteria with "a selection of entrees, side dishes and desserts")       Polynesian Terrace Restaurant ("A South Sea island-inspired buffet, which includes desserts")           The Golden Galleon (sells novelties)       Cristal Arts (sells glasswork)       La Petite Parfumerie (sells perfumes & soaps)       Le Gourmet (sells teas)       Chiba Traders (sells crafts from Chiba prefecture and the rest of Japan)       Tiki Tropic Shop (sells Polynesian-style clothing, folkcrafts, & gifts)       Safari Trading Company (sells African crafts)       Candy Wagon (sells candy, chocolates, & cookies)   Tokyo Disney Sea     Mediterranean Harbor       Fortress Explorations (interactive play area)       Cafe Portofino (Italian Buffeteria)       Valentina's Sweets (sells candies, chocolates, & sweets)       Emporio(sells toys & household goods)       Galleria Disney (sells character merchandise & toys)       Il Postino Stationery (gifts)       Nicolo's Workshop (sells glassworks)       Merchant of Venice Confections (sells cookies, chocolate, gifts, & souvenirs)       Venetian Carnival Market (drygoods, Italian specialty items)       Juliet's Collections & Treasures (jewelry)       Miramare (sells character merchandise)       Piccolo Mercato (sells entertainment show merchandise, toys, & gifts)       Splendido (sells hats)       Regalini (sells candies, cookies, & chocolates)     Mysterious Island       Journey to the Center of the Earth [FastPass]       20,000 Leagues Under the Sea [FastPass]       Vulcania Restaurant (Chinese buffeteria)       Refreshment Station (has gyoza sausage buns)       Nautilus Gifts (sells Mysterious Island themed & general character merchandise)     Mermaid Lagoon       Flounders Flying Fish Coaster       Scuttle's Scooters       Mermaid Lagoon Theatre [FastPass]       Blowfist Balloon Race       The Whirlpool       The Sleepy Whale Shop (sells character merchandise)       Mermaid Treasures (sells Jewelry)     Arabian Coast       Sinbad's Seven Voyages       The Magic Lamp Theater [FastPass]       Open Sesame (has Kheema curry bread)       Agrabah Marketplace (sells character merchandise)       Abu's Sweets's (sells "just desserts" & "heavenly rewards")     Lost River Delta       Mystic Rhythms       Indiana Jones Adventure [FastPass]       Expedition Eats (has Yucatan sausage rolls)       Tropic Al's (has banana calzones)       Lost River Outfitters (sells character merchandise & apparel)     Port Discovery       StormRider [FastPass]       Aquatopia       Horizon Bay Restaurant (Buffeteria w/ open grill, seafood, soup, salads, & desserts)       Seaside Snacks (has gyoza sausage buns)       Discovery Gifts (sells gifts & character merchandise)     American Waterfront       Restaurant Sakura (Japanese fusion cuisine)       Sailing Day Buffet (buffet-style restaurant, cuisine not detailed)       McDuck's Department Store (sells character goods, confections, apparel, souvenirs, & stuffed toys)       Steamboat Mickey's (sells souvenirs & gifts)       Aunt Peg's Village Store (sells sweets & sundries)       Ikspiari (Mall inside of Tokyo Disneyland, accessible via the Disney Resort Monorail)   Bon Voyage (Store w/ Disney merchandise right by Maihama station)   Take Out Food Wagons (In both Disney Resort & Disney Sea)   Disney Resort Line Monorail (English) One-Day Pass ¥500 Two-Day Pass ¥600 Three-Day Pass ¥800 Four-Day Pass ¥1,000 How to get there from the greater Tokyo Metropolitan Area Routes via train: Rail Line Map Tokyo Station JR Keiyo Line or JR Musashino Line (about 15 minutes) get off at JR Maihama Station (South Exit) ¥210 Shinjuku Station (New South Exit) direct bus (about 60 min.) Map & Schedule Yokohama Station (East Exit) direct bus (about 60 min.) Map & Schedule Urayasu Station (Tozai Line) direct bus(about 18 minutes) Map & Schedule Urayasu Station (Tozai Line) city bus (about 25 minutes) Fastpass information Tickets for Tokyo Disneyland can be purchased at Disney Stores as well as at JR Station Traveling desks Pricing - Consecutive days - One day / evening 1-Day Passport - Disneyland or DisneySea ¥5,500 Starlight Passport - Disneyland after 3 PM weekdays ¥4,500 After 6 Passport - Disneyland after 6 PM weeknights ¥2,500 2-Day Passport - Disneyland or DisneySea ¥9,800 3-Day Passport - Disneyland and DisneySea ¥13,700 4-Day Passport - Disneyland and DisneySea Enjoy one Park each on Day 1 and Day 2 Then enjoy either or both Parks on Day 3 and Day 4 ¥17,200

Tour Guides

Fishing in Japan

Asakusa map	Ginza map
Tokyo & Imperial Palace map	Shinjuku map

GETTING AROUND
Flying is an efficient way to travel from the main islands to any of the small islands, and is often not much more expensive than going by rail. Check whether you qualify for discounts - there are some weird and wonderful ones (for example JAL offers discounts for three or more women travelling together, or for a husband and wife if their combined age totals 88 or more). Train is the way to travel in Japan. The trains are fast, frequent, clean, comfortable and often very expensive. Services range from small local lines to the shinkansen super-expresses, or 'bullet trains', which have become a symbol of modern Japan. Shinkansen reach speeds of up to 270km/h (167mi/h), are spookily efficient and can be travelled on with one of Japan's few travel bargains, the Rail Pass. Rail Passes must be pre-purchased overseas and are valid for almost all Japan Rail services. Intercity buses are generally slower than trains, but they are markedly cheaper. Also, unless you've got a sleeper, travelling overnight in a reclining bus seat can be preferable to sitting upright on the train.

Driving in Japan is much more feasible than it's normally made out to be. You wouldn't want to get behind the wheel in Tokyo, but in other urban centres the roads are fairly well signposted in English, other drivers are mostly considerate and cautious, petrol is no more expensive than it is in Europe (which means it's about three times the price it is in the US), and parking is not as difficult to find as popular mythology suggests. Motorcycling can be a great way of getting around Japan; 50cc 'step-thrus' are often available for local sightseeing, and you don't need a motorbike licence to drive one. Traffic in Japan moves on the left.

Exploring Japan by bicycle is perfectly feasible. The secret of enjoyable touring is to get off the busy main highways and onto the minor routes. Ferries are an excellent way of seeing parts of Japan you might otherwise miss. The densest network of ferry routes connects Kyushu, Shikoku and the southern coast of Western Honshu, across the waters of the Inland Sea. Ferries also connect the mainland islands with the many smaller islands off the coast and those dotted down to Okinawa and beyond to Taiwan.

Local transport is generally efficient. The largest cities have subway systems, which are the fastest and most convenient way to get around. Almost every Japanese city will have a bus service, but many foreigners find buses difficult to use. Trams, which operate in a number of cities, are easier to negotiate. Taxis are convenient but (quelle surprise) expensive.

This begs the question of what the other 90% of people in Japan are. ^_-

Name :  Japan
Official Name :  Japan
Capital :  Tokyo
Climate :  Cold and dry in the north, warm and wetter in the south. Devastating typhoons occur from late August to early October.
Race :  9.4% Japanese, 0.6% other (mostly Korean).
Language :  Japanese, English
Official Language :  English
Religion :  84% observe both Shinto and Buddhist, 0.7% Christian, 15.3% other.
Government :  Constitutional Monarchy.
Population (in mil) :  126.5
Literacy Rate :  100%
Visas :  US passport holders and most EU residents do not require a visa if staying in Japan less than 90 days.
Visitors from the rest of the countries are required to get a visa.
Immunisations :
Time :  GMT/UTC plus nine hours.
Electricity :  100V; 50 Hz (Tokyo and eastern Japan), 60 Hz (western Japan).
Weights & Measures :  Metric
Currency :  Yen
Travellers Cheque :  Travellers cheques and cash can be changed at ‘Authorised Foreign Exchange Bank’, large hotels and stores.
Credit Cards :  International credit cards are widely acceptable in major cities.
Tipping :  There is little tipping in Japan.
Bargaining :  Bargaining is largely restricted to discount electronics districts.

Taking a Communal Hot-Spring Bath: No other people on earth bathe as enthusiastically, as frequently, and for such a long duration as the Japanese. Their many hot-spring resorts--thought to cure all sorts of ailments as well as simply making you feel good--range from hangarlike affairs to outdoor baths with views of the countryside. No matter what the setup, you'll soon warm to the ritual of soaping up, rinsing off, and then soaking in near-scalding waters.

Participating in a Festival: With Shintoism and Buddhism as its major religions and temples and shrines virtually everywhere, Japan has festivals literally every weekend. These celebrations, which range from huge processions of wheeled floats to those featuring horseback archery and ladder-top acrobatics, can be lots of fun to attend; you may want to plan your trip around one.

Dining on Japanese Food: There's more to Japanese cuisine than sushi, and part of what makes travel here so fascinating is the variety of national and regional dishes. Every prefecture, it seems, has its own style of noodles, its special vegetables, and delicacies. If money is no object, order kaiseki,a complete meal of visual and culinary finesse.

Viewing the Cherry Blossoms: Nothing symbolizes the coming of spring so vividly to the Japanese as the appearance of the cherry blossoms--and nothing so amazes visitors as the way the Japanese gather under the blossoms to celebrate the season with food, drink, dance, and karaoke.

Riding the Shinkansen Bullet Train: Asia's fastest train whips you across the countryside at more than 180 miles an hour as you relax, see the country's rural countryside, and dine on a boxed meal filled with local specialties of the area you're speeding through.

Staying in a Ryokan (Traditional Japanese Inn): Japan's legendary service reigns supreme in the traditional ryokan. Staying in a ryokan is the height of both luxury and simplicity: You'll bathe in a Japanese tub, dine in your own tatami-floored room, sleep on a futon, awaken to lovely views (usually a Japanese garden) past the shoji screens, and breakfast in your room to start the day.

Shopping in a Department Store: Japan's department stores are among the best in the world, offering everything from food to designer clothing to electronics to kimono. Service also is among the best in the world; if you arrive as the store opens, the staff will be lined up at the front door to bow as you enter.

Attending a Kabuki Play: Based on universal themes and designed to appeal to the masses, Kabuki plays are extravaganzas of theatrical displays, costumes, and scenes--but mostly they're just plain fun.

Strolling Through Tokyo's Nightlife District: Every major city in Japan has its own nightlife district, but probably none is more famous, more wicked, or more varied than Tokyo's Kabuki-cho in Shinjuku, which offers everything from hole-in-the-wall bars to strip joints, discos, and gay clubs.

Seeing Mt. Fuji: It may not seem like much of an accomplishment to see Japan's most famous and tallest mountain, visible from 100 miles away. But the truth is, it's hardly ever visible except during the winter months and rare occasions when the air is clear. Catching your first glimpse of the giant peak is truly breathtaking and something you'll never forget whether you see it from aboard the Shinkansen, from a Tokyo skyscraper, or from a nearby national park. If you want to climb it, be prepared for a group experience because 400,000 people climb Mt. Fuji every year.

Spending a Few Days in Kyoto: If you see only one town in Japan, Kyoto should be it. Japan's capital from 794 to 1868, Kyoto is one of Japan's finest ancient cities, boasting some of the country's best temples, Japanese-style inns, traditional restaurants, shops, and gardens.

http://www.nytimes.com/2003/01/19/travel/19matsu.html

WITH its peaked gables and shimmering tiles, the castle that gave the city of Matsumoto its name seems to hover over the flat plains of the town in the dry, brilliant weather that is common here like some fantastically inspired wedding cake.

As a piece of timing, the 400-year-old building, which is Japan's oldest surviving castle, was an abject failure. It was conceived at the height of a period of intense warfare between feuding samurai clans, but by the time the extraordinary six-story defensive structure was completed, in 1614, Japan had entered an era of unprecedented stability. The peace under centralized rule would last two and a half centuries.

The very plan of this old city -with its narrow, zigzagging streets that seem to turn back upon themselves, leading to nowhere and thus confusing attackers - was laid out with war in mind. The battles never reached here, though, and the effect that remains, happily, is one of overwhelming tranquillity, particularly after the noise and bustle of Tokyo.

Nagano, the capital of the mountainous prefecture of the same name, and home to the majestic twin ranges of the Japanese Alps, is by far the best known and most heavily frequented city in this central region of Honshu, Japan's largest island. The construction of a new shinkansen, or bullet train, line for the Winter Olympics the city played host to in 1998 assured that it would hold onto the distinction. It is just three hours from Tokyo.

But for many Japanese, and for foreign visitors who prefer being just slightly off the beaten path, Matsumoto is the real jewel of the prefecture, a city treasured for its unhurried sophistication and historic charms.

Easily manageable on foot or by bicycle, the city of just over 200,000 is a convenient and comfortable jumping-off point for skiers in the winter and hikers and climbers who, in the warmer months, head for the mountains that loom in the distance in virtually every direction.

Visitors from Tokyo love Matsumoto for, among other things, its famous soba noodles, the buckwheat delicacy that this Alpine region, where rice cultivation is difficult, has long made its specialty. The Matsumoto area is also home to countless onsen, or Japanese-style hot baths, built over hot springs, where a series of steamy soakings during a night or two spent in an austere tatami mat room and eating traditional delicacies meal after meal can provide an amazingly thorough unwinding.

Just as the city grew up around its superb fortifications, any visit here logically begins at Matsumoto Castle. Unlike European castles, which are usually made of stone, Matsumoto's 98-foot structure, one of four Japanese castles officially designated as National Treasures, is made almost entirely of wood. The building can be seen from almost anywhere in the central city, which makes finding it simple. To get inside, the visitor must cross two footbridges spanning moats filled with mottled golden carp, ducks and geese.

English-language brochures are available at the entrance, and volunteer guides who speak serviceable English are often on hand to accompany foreign guests inside. Few will regret taking them up on the offer, because it becomes clear in just a few minutes that they really know their stuff. As one does entering a Japanese home, you must take off your shoes, the difference here being that you carry them with you in a clear plastic bag.

Among the first facts learned about the castle is that it was designed not with postcard prettiness but rather serious violence in mind. The able guides, who are mostly retirees and housewives, explain that the tiny windows at the lower levels were used for dropping stones on any attacking samurai who tried to scale the building. A little higher up, other, slatlike windows were used for throwing spears and lances, and shooting arrows and the guns that were just making their way into use in Japan.

The inside of the castle reveals a world made of wood: huge cedar beams cut and carved by hand, and floorboards that are pleasantly cool to the foot, at least in the warm months. No visitor will fail to notice the steepness of the stairs, for one because the guides are always reminding you to take your time and to be careful. Even here, one is told, the design had defense in mind. The 50-plus-degree incline and the long distance between rises was intended to slow attackers down and put them off balance.

 The surprise on the intermediate floors, between steep climbs, is to find that the castle serves as a museum, beginning with the country's largest collection of ancient firearms dating back to the early 17th century. Displayed in glass cases, the long Japanese guns, which sometimes fired stones for shot, seem like distant kin to our muskets and blunderbusses, from which they had been only recently derived. For their makers, aesthetics seems to have counted as much as function, and each of these strangely beautiful creations reflects the same kind of individuality and soul that Japanese craftsmen of the era so famously imparted to their swords.

The castle also contains displays of the intricate body armor without which no samurai would have dreamed of jousting, including one pierced by a bullet. Countless times one will have heard that the thick, colorfully stitched padding inspired the costume of the Star Wars villain, Darth Vader. But until one sees the real item at close hand, as one does here, it is impossible to realize just how pale a shadow Hollywood's minimalist creation is.

The fortress's ultimate subterfuge, after the surrounding streets that seem to lead everywhere except for the moats, and the stairs that leave visitors feeling winded and dizzy, comes on a sixth, intermediate floor, where the builders created a hidden half story, which was designed to fool attackers who from outside would have only counted five. Should any attacker have made it this far, a small army of samurai would have been lying here in wait to prevent them from reaching the abode of their daimyo, or lord.

Nowadays the best rewards undoubtedly go to those who persevere to the top, where the guide's expertise shifts from architecture to geography. Under the blue skies that seem to reign over these plains, Japan's northern Alps range in the western distance, snowcapped from early November until late spring. To the east runs another range, including a series of nearby peaks known as Utsukushigahara, or beautiful plateau, signifying the grassy flatlands at an altitude of 6,500 feet, where cows graze for half the year.

After a tour of the castle, a visit to one of Matsumoto's 50 or so soba shops is in order, and luckily some of the most famous ones are immediately at hand. Near the monument's entrance sits Soba Shou, a two-story soba shop where diners remove their shoes, sit on tatami and enjoy views of the castle. A matronly waitress who took a foreigner's order asked if he wanted tempura, saying "That's what all the foreigners eat."

I can attest to the quality of the tempura, but it would be a shame for anyone who came from abroad to miss the local specialties, which in addition to large servings of hot or cold soba include sansai, or mountain vegetables (delicious, wild, crunchy greens), and for those with the stomach for it, chewy horsemeat.

Less appealingly, large parts of Matsumoto resemble almost any other medium-sized Japanese city. This is particularly true of the commercial district around the main train station, which is as much the center of Japanese urban life today as castles and forts once were.

A 15-minute walk from the station, and a fairly short distance from virtually anywhere in this modest-sized city, however, sits an older, sublimely elegant part of town that alternates streets showcasing the cozy bourgeois affluence of a Swiss canton with narrow, riverside alleyways that still recall the feudal period.

Along the banks of the Metoba River, one finds shops dating from the early Edo period, built in the kura style, with decorative walls of white plaster and black beams. One of the shops, the Yama-ya, has been selling candies since 1672. Here too is one of Japan's oldest coffee shops, Marumo, a place with an Old World feeling, where classical music from a huge collection is played at a whisperlike volume on a stereo, waitresses murmur irrashaimase (welcome) with every entrance and departure, and a mostly prosperous, middle-aged clientele gathers to exchange gossip.

The coffee shop's distinctive furniture, low-slung, dark and beautifully lustrous cherry, reflects another local specialty. The most famous producer of the style, known as mingei kagu, or folk art furniture, has a shop nearby, Matsumoto Mingei Kagu, but be prepared to hold your breath, not just for the quality, which is high, but for the prices, which are equally lofty. A table for six, for example, can be had for around $4,000.

 On the other side of the river sits the Yohashira Jinja, a lovely Shinto shrine that one enters through large torii, or beamlike gates. In addition to being a quiet place to sit down and collect oneself while resting the feet, the shrine provides an interesting window on a little-understood side of Japanese life: a spirituality that encompasses the simultaneous practice of several faiths.

Young mothers come to the shrine's grounds to play outdoors with their children. Lovers kiss surreptitiously in the shade. And office workers come to steal a moment for a smoke outdoors.

But on this day, with school exams approaching, several teenagers, who will almost certainly marry in Christian ceremonies and be buried in Buddhist ones - a pattern that has prevailed in recent decades in a country where few people are attached to a single religion, but rather pick and choose ceremonies from the three faiths - come and stop before the colorful altar to clap their hands twice in a call to the gods. After a moment's meditation, and dropping a few coins, they tie a prayer to a cord hung off to the side, in a final appeal for success, and then they are gone.

Visitor Information

Matsumoto Castle is open daily. English-language brochures are available at the entrance, and volunteer guides who speak serviceable English are often on hand to accompany foreign guests inside free of charge. The fee is $4.35, $2 for children, at an exchange rate of 119 yen to the dollar. The trip from Shinjuko Station in Tokyo to Matsumoto Station takes about 2 hours and 40 minutes by JR Chuo Honsen Limited Express.

Japan Folklore Museum, in front of the castle donjon, has on display more than 91,000 artifacts concerning the archaeology, history, folklore and nature of the area. Open daily, 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (must enter by 4:30). The admission fee for the castle covers the museum.

Alps Park, 25 minutes by bus from Matsumoto Bus Terminal, is 2,625 feet in altitude. The scenery of the Northern Japan Alps, Azumino and Matsumoto can be enjoyed from here.

Former Kaichi Gakko (School) Building, a 10-minute walk from the castle, was built in 1876 and is the oldest Western-style school structure in Japan.

Matsumoto Folkcraft Museum, near Shimo-Kanai Bus Stop, 15 minutes by bus from Matsumoto Station, was built in 1962 by Taro Maruyama, a noted folk artist of the city, and displays 6,000 folk home utensils of wood, bamboo and glass. The museum closed for renovation shortly after I visited, and is scheduled to reopen in April.

Japan Ukiyo-e Museum, seven minutes by car from JR Matsumoto Station or a 15-minute walk from Oniwa Station on the Matsumoto Dentetsu Railway, houses some 100,000 woodblock prints. Closed Monday; admission $8.

Asama Spa, 20 minutes by bus from Matsumoto Station, is a quiet hot spring resort. It serves as a base for excursions to Utsukushigahara Plateau and Lake Misuzu. Bus fare $2.95.

World attention swivels to Japan and Korea when the two nations are hosts to the World Cup soccer final, May 31 to June 30. The games will coincide with the annual iris festivals, a bit early this year because of the unseasonably warm weather. And whether they are soccer fans or flower fans or neither, summer visitors to Tokyo will find a city that is more relaxed and more affordable than at any time in recent memory.

While some Tokyo men still dress in business suits for Sunday brunch, it is easy to navigate to zones of hipper individualism. The simplest way to enjoy the new Tokyo is to stroll down Omotesando-dori in the center of the city on a Sunday afternoon. A magnet for people, the avenue draws dog walkers and window shoppers, poseurs and parasitos. The latter are live-at-home professional young women who spend all their money on clothes. Admiring glances, if discreet, are appreciated.

Side streets are a fascinating trove of ultrachic boutiques, interspersed with charming restaurants, often with outside tables for more people watching. Here, visitors will enjoy the 15 percent devaluation of the yen over the last year. Up and down the quality scale, Tokyo restaurant prices are now roughly on a par with New York's.

Besides the informal passing parade along the Omotesando, organized parades, often Shinto processions, take place there most Sundays. At the end of the avenue lies the Harajuku rail station, where bleached-blonde teenagers dress up as cartoon characters. Harajuku is a main entrance for Meiji Shrine Park, which, from the end of May through mid-June, will show off 1,500 plants from 150 varieties of Japanese iris. Admission to this floral display, one of Japan's most famous, will be $3.75.

Events

Iris season ? a palette of lavender, purple and pink ? peaks in mid-June. In addition to the display at Meiji Shrine Park, 6,000 plants are expected to bloom in the Horikiri Shobuen, an iris park that has inspired painters for centuries; open daily in June from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., with free admission; otherwise closed Monday and Tuesday, except for the fourth week of each month, when it is closed Sunday and Monday. The park is a 10-minute walk from Horikiri Shobuen Station of the Keisei line; (81-3) 3965-1111.

An even larger display will be at Toritsu Mizumoto Koen, where 14,000 plants will be on view 24 hours a day, also free. The park is a 10-minute walk from the Kanamachi Station of the Chiyoda subway line.

In honor of Japan's partner as host of the World Cup, the Tokyo National Museum, 13-9 Ueno Park, Taito ward, (81-3) 3822-1111, will present an exhibition of Korean treasures ? including a gold crown and an eighth-century Buddha statue ? from June 11 through July 28. Closed Mondays. Admission free to foreigners from one week before to one week after World Cup Games. Otherwise $10.

The World Cup games will be played at a variety of sites in Japan, including the stadiums in Yokohama city and Saitama city near Tokyo. For those without tickets, wide-screen television sets will proliferate in Tokyo sports bars for raucous collective viewing. It's best to check the ubiquitous free weekly Metropolis for game times and cheering places.

From May 12 to 26, the May Grand Sumo Tournament will take place at the Ryogoku Kokugikan arena, in eastern Tokyo. Tickets, from $27 to $85, are available at many travel agencies and convenience stores.

The old Asakusa neighborhood ? where many shrines, temples and even some shops date from the Edo Period (1600-1868) ? will be the scene of one of the year's largest outdoor festivals, the Sanja Matsuri, May 17 to 19. Thousands turn out for food and sake as chanting men and women lug huge Shinto shrines through the streets.

Sightseeing

Visiting Tokyo is a humbling experience for non-Japanese speakers ? you can't read the signs or talk to cabdrivers, and traffic moves on the left. The streets and avenues often carry no names, and they seem to be cement versions of the wandering cow paths they once were.

To put together the pieces of the puzzle, take the elevator up Tokyo Tower, (81-3) 3433-5111, www.tokyotower.co.jp, to the 1,092-foot-high glassed-in viewing platform. Newly refurbished this spring, it offers views in all directions, including Mount Fuji on a clear day; the best views are just after the 9 a.m. opening, before haze builds up. General admission, $6.20. Open daily till 8 p.m.

A welcome antidote to Tokyo's madcap rush to modern development is the Imperial Palace, on the grounds of the 17th-century Edo Castle, the heart and soul of the city. The inner sanctum is off limits, but the palace's 53-acre East Garden, or Higashi Gyoen, (81-3) 3213-2050, offers a quiet green refuge of winding park paths and historical ruins. The garden is open free of charge 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; closed Monday and Friday.

The Edo-Tokyo Museum, 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku, (81-3) 3272-9974, near the Ryogoku Kokugikan arena where the May Grand Sumo Tournament takes place, is a repository of Tokyo's history and culture. From June 15 to July 14 it will feature an exhibition of recent archaeological discoveries in Japan. Closed Monday; admission $4.50.

Daiba, a commercial center on reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay, has become a magnet for young Japanese. In addition to shops, movie theaters and restaurants, it has a seaside park.

Where to Stay

The red-brick Hotel Ginza Daiei, (81-3) 3545-1111, fax (81-3) 3545-1177, may not be chic, but it's within two blocks of the chic shops and restaurants of the Ginza and is behind the Kabukiza Theater, a Ginza landmark. The 107 rooms are small but feature bilingual TV, trouser presses and minibars. Doubles, $121.

Across town, in the new high-rise cluster of Shinjuku, the four-year-old Hotel Century Southern Tower, (81-3) 5354-0111, fax (81-3) 5354-0100, www.southerntower.co.jp, offers 375 rooms equipped for business travelers in the 22nd to 35th floors of a skyscraper. There's a reception area on the 20th floor and a health club on the 21st. Double rates are $166 and $212.

Budget: For an affordable alternative, the Ryokan Sansuiso, (81-3) 3441-7475, fax (81-3) 3449-1944, www.sansuiso.net, offers country-inn accommodations in nine rooms with tatami mats (no beds), shoji screens and wood ceilings in a white two-story house on a side street in the city's Gotanda section. It charges $65 for a double with clean, shared bathroom and $68 for a double with private bath.

Luxury: Across from the American Embassy, the venerable Hotel Okura, (81-3) 3582-0111, fax (81-3) 3582-3707, www.hotelokura.co.jp, contains home-grown Japanese touches (like screens and flower arrangements) in its 854 rooms that set it apart from the international chains. It combines Western roominess with an attentive staff. Guests can use the pool and health spa without charge if they join the hotel club, which is just a matter of signing up. Doubles: $284 to $318.

The Imperial Hotel, (81-3) 3504-1111, fax (81-3) 3581-9146, www.imperialhotel.co.jp, has reigned supreme in the heart of downtown since the days when the Imperial Palace, across the way, was Japan's power center. Impeccable service, 1,057 large, well-appointed rooms ? some with floor-to-ceiling windows offering views of the palace, the Ginza or Tokyo Bay ? make the 80-year-old Imperial the doyenne of Tokyo hotels. Among the amenities are a 20th-floor fitness center and swimming pool with a sweeping view of Tokyo Bay. Doubles, $295 to $402.

Where to Eat

In cosmopolitan Tokyo, most high-end restaurants now have English menus and many family-style restaurants have picture menus. Dishes often arrive at the table singly and in no particular order, which can make for disjointed group meals. Also, many restaurants that offer $8 lunch specials charge $20 for dinner.

Between the chic Ginza and the gritty Tokyo harbor, Tsukiji is the biggest fish market for one of the world's biggest fish-eating nations ? and it is a safe bet that you can find melt-in-your-mouth sushi in the area. Sushizanmai, (81-3) 3541-1117, has two restaurants in Tsukiji; my favorite is two blocks in from Shin Ohashi Dori, the one with the pink banner. The upstairs restaurant gives a little relief from the raucous cries of the sushi chefs taking orders; a setto of 10 different tuna pieces and tea goes for $23. A meal for two with beer or sake is $60. Open 24 hours; no reservations accepted.

A cheaper lunch or dinner can be found by wandering Shin Ohashi Dori in front of Tsukiji and stopping at the stand-up tempura and noodle shops under the covered sidewalk; a filling bowl of buckwheat soba noodles and shrimp tempura can be had for about $10 a person with beer.

Fujimamas, (81-3) 5485-2262, fax (81-3) 5485-2281, www.fujimamas.com, is one of many medium-priced restaurants about a block off the Omotesando. Pan-Asian dishes include smoked and spiced chicken with mint chutney and sweet potato salad ($6.80). Dinner for two with drinks, $30. Open daily for lunch and dinner. On Omotesando, turn left at La Costa, a sporting goods store, and go a few yards.

George and Laura Bush dined in February with Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi at Gonpachi at the Nishi-Azabu crossing of Roppongi-Dori, (81-3) 5771-0170, fax (81-3) 5771-0160. The three-story restaurant opened in August, looking like a whitewashed feudal manor rising out of the jangling electronic hubbub of the Roppongi entertainment district. In warm months, the third floor features an open-air sushi restaurant. The sake list is outstanding. Gonpachi offers quiet, country-style dining, in a booth or at a table. Sharing several dishes, such as miso-glazed black cod, skewered pork with lime pepper, and cold soba noodles with baby scallops and fried shrimps, two can dine for $35, including sake.

The owners of Gonpachi also operate Monsoon Cafe, a chain of five Tokyo restaurants. They offer a Thailand shrimp stir-fry with coconut curry, Indonesian fresh vegetable salad with peanut sauce, and Chinese rice noodles with pork and vegetables, and the pan-Asian theme carries over to the décor. The one in Shibuya, (81-3) 5489-3789, on Kyu-Yamate Dori near the intersection with Route 246, has a veranda for outdoor dining. Among the other branches are the ones at 2-10-1 Nishiazabu, Minato-ku, and 7-3-1 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku. All are open daily for lunch and dinner. The Monsoons offer dinner for two, with drinks, for about $40.

When you are ready to splurge, make a dinner reservation at Hanezawa Garden, (81-3) 3400-2013, fax (81-3) 3400-2251, a walled garden and estate house on a back street in the Hiroo district that has recently been converted into a soothingly quiet restaurant. The seven-course $75 prix-fixe dinner starts with smoked seafood appetizers, continues with beef filet with ponzu sauce and concludes with a sushi course and dessert. Down below, in a more informal terrace garden, the prix fixe barbecue menus are $26, $34 and $38; all you can drink for two hours is $23. Both restaurants offer à la carte menus. Inside the manor, where the polished wood provides the feeling of an old family residence, dinner for two with drinks costs about $125.

JAMES BROOKE is the chief of the Tokyo bureau of The Times.

This once happened to us in Kyoto; I was with my Japanese husband too. The bill came to near 15,000 yen for a few beers. I was horrified, but he said it was normal.

Basically the 5,000 yen was a service charge for allowing you to stay as strangers. This is why introductions are so
important in Japan. If someone the mama-san knew had taken you there, no problem. But you just walked in off the
street, unknown and non-Japanese at that.

Guest Houses
Minshuku
One way to cut costs while traveling in Japan, as well as have a chance to penetrate below the surface of the daily life you're passing through, is to check into a minshuku. The Japanese equivalent of guest-home type lodgings, minshuku are family-run businesses, with the rented rooms being part of the owners' own home. They are often found in choice resorts and vacation spots, and feature moderate rates.

As befits their "home industry" status, minshuku offer considerably fewer amenities than strictly professional establishments. Guests, for example, are expected to fold up their bedding in the morning and stow it away in a closet, just as a family member would.

Minshuku also don't provide the kinds of courtesies you can expect from a hotel or ryokan, such as towels and yukata. Minshuku rates are about 6,500 yen, which includes two meals, usually served family style.

Pension
Pension accommodations generally fall somewhere between the homey atmosphere of a minshuku and the more pampered amenities of a hotel.

They are usually found in areas popular for sports, such as near ski resorts and in mountains and their open-spirited philosophy and unrestricted management styles are usually very accommodating to anyone who is adaptable. The average cost for one night, without meals, is 8,000 yen, or 10,000 yen with two meals

Ryokan
Ryokan
Ryokan are found all across Japan, though for the best experience, you'd be wise to seek out one in a quiet residential district. Most ryokan are small buildings of no more than a dozen or so rooms, often built facing a small garden. There are some 70,000 ryokan in Japan, of which 1,800 are quality establishments belonging to the Japan Ryokan Association.

Although ryokan rates vary greatly, with a few very exclusive establishments charging high rates, charges are usually in the range of 12,000 yen to 20,000 yen per person, including two meals and excluding tax and service charges. For the budget traveler, there are more than 80 inns belonging to the Japanese Inn Group, which specializes in welcoming visitors from abroad. These inns are also quite economical, with room rates averaging around 5,000 yen per person, excluding meals.

Pockets in Japan, however, are getting lighter with the growing use of integrated-circuit smart cards. The size of a credit card, they are packed with thin antennas and an encrypted integrated chip that can be used thousands of times to pay for train fares, meals at restaurants and snacks at convenience stores. In less than two years, nearly seven million people in Japan have started using one of two types of cards, both based on technology developed by Sony.

So far, the main client for the cards is JR East, the largest railway company in Japan. Nearly six million train and bus commuters have started using the first of the two types, known as Suica cards, since they were introduced 18 months ago. Although train riders in Hong Kong and Paris have been using that type of card for several years, Japan is the largest market yet to adopt them.

Their biggest selling point is speed. The card's antenna sends signals to readers at ticket gates, so no card-to-machine contact is needed. The entire transaction takes one-fifth of a second, faster than is possible with similar technology introduced by the Philips group.

"It's a marginal improvement, but our society is wealthy because of millions of these little improvements," said Jeffrey Funk, an associate professor of business at Kobe University who tracks wireless technology. "Taken together, they are part of the elimination of cash from society."

In the United States, toll collection systems like E-ZPass employ similar radio-wave technology, as does the Speedpass system, in which customers can pay for gasoline and convenience-store products at Exxon and Mobil service stations. Procter & Gamble, Gillette and other companies are now using the technology to track products from assembly line to store shelves.

JR East, which operates in the Tokyo area, spent 45 billion yen (about $384 million) to roll out Suica. Its hope is to save money: fewer coins means fewer security guards to haul them away. The card also cuts down on paper for tickets and on repairs to ticket-vending machines.

Suica, which requires a 500-yen deposit ($4.25), is essentially a debit card. Riders take the cards to vending machines and add as much money as they want. If the card is lost, the cash cannot be recovered, but there is no need to call a credit card company to cancel it because it is not linked to a specific account.

Within a year, JR East plans to add card readers to its bullet train ticket gates and to 500 of its fast food and convenience stores.

For the cards to generate more profits, experts say, credit capability would need to be added to allow shoppers to spend more freely. By and large, however, the Japanese prefer cash over credit. The Japanese fear that the government and aggressive marketers could use the cards to track their every purchase, and they like to keep a tight rein on debt.

"With the prepaid cards, I know how much I am spending," said Kotaro Matsuoka, a 22-year-old student who started using Suica last April. "If there was a credit function, I wouldn't know how much I owe. It's scary."

Companies are trying to make it more convenient to add money to the cards. Toward that end, Sony and 28 other companies have formed a joint venture called bitWallet, which created the Edy network. The network is based on the same technology used in the Suica cards, except that readers require contact with the cards. For 2,980 yen (about $25), consumers can buy a small reader that connects to a computer with a U.S.B. cable. They can log on to a secure Web site from home or the office and add money to their cards, sending the bill to their credit card issuer or bank account. The bitWallet venture also plans to lease vending machines, at 3,000 yen a month each (about $26), to shops that accept its cards.

At the moment, Edy cards are accepted in 2,100 shops nationwide, including about 1,400 convenience stores; they are also being tested in several Tokyo neighborhoods. About half of the 650,000 users, however, are people who work for companies that have installed the system in their cafeterias and other places. But bitWallet expects eight million users by March 2004 as it installs readers in more shops. By then, bitWallet, which takes a percentage of sales on the cards, hopes to break even.

A Taste of the Best
The first food theme park in Japan, the Shinyokohama Raumen Museum, opened in 1994. Ramen, the theme of this facility, is a noodle dish that originated in China and has been adapted to suit Japanese tastes. It became explosively popular in the 1950s and 1960s, spread to all parts of Japan, and underwent a process of diversification. Today ramen is without doubt a genuine Japanese food.

At the Shinyokohama Raumen Museum, visitors can try out some of the most popular varieties of ramen all in one location. About seven or eight branches of well-established ramen shops from around the country are set up on a permanent basis, and the museum invites other famous eateries to offer their fare for limited periods. Featured frequently on television and in magazines, it attracts from 100,000 to 150,000 visitors each month.

Not far away, the Yokohama Curry Museum (site is Japanese only) opened in 2001. Popular curry restaurants in various parts of Japan have outlets here. Curry is another food that entered Japan from foreign shores and was adapted to Japanese tastes; the shops at the museum primarily serve Japanese-style and Indian-style curry.

New in 2002
Two new food theme parks made their debut in July 2002: the Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium (site is Japanese only) in Tokyo and Naniwa Kuishinbo Yokocho (Osaka Eaters' Alley) in Osaka. The Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium hosts 12 particularly popular restaurants specializing in gyoza (dumplings stuffed usually with minced pork and vegetables). Like ramen, gyozaare Chinese in origin, but the Japanese dumplings are usually pan-fried rather than boiled or steamed, and diners dip them in a soy sauce and vinegar mix when eating them. Temujin (site is Japanese only), a Kyushu restaurant, serves bite-size gyoza with an original sauce touched up with a citron garnish. Kirasse (site is Japanese only) offers dumplings delivered from several restaurants in Utsunomiya, a city in Tochigi Prefecture that has made itself famous for gyoza.Representing Yokohama's China Town is Shofukumon, which serves Hong-Kong-style dumplings that have been slightly modified for Japanese consumers.

Naniwa Kuishinbo Yokocho is the first food theme park in the Kansai region around Osaka. The project is something of a gamble, as Osaka is known for an overabundance of places to eat. Instead of focusing on a single food, Naniwa Kuishinbo Yokocho brings together 20 restaurants that are popular in and around Osaka. One is Hokkyokusei, the inventor of omu-raisu, an omelet filled with fried rice, which is today eaten throughout Japan. Another is Jiyuken (site is Japanese only), a curry restaurant famous for a dish in which rice and curry sauce are mixed together, on the center of which a raw egg is dropped.

The interior designs of both the Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium and Naniwa Kuishinbo Yokocho are reminiscent of Japan's high-growth years. The former has the nostalgic look of urban shopping streets in the third decade of the Showa era (1955-64), when the high-growth period was getting underway, while the latter is modeled after downtown Osaka in the second half of the 1960s, a particularly lively period when the city was gearing up to host Osaka Expo '70.

Keeping Customers Coming Back
In addition to the four food theme parks already discussed, Japan has three more: Shimizu Sushi Museum in Shizuoka Prefecture, Otaru Unga Shokudo (Otaru Canal Cafeteria) in Hokkaido Prefecture, and Raumen Stadium in Fukuoka Prefecture. Surprisingly, the designer and manager behind as many as four of these parks (Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium, Naniwa Kuishinbo Yokocho, Raumen Stadium, and Shinyokohama Curry Museum) is Namco, a leading video-game manufacturer.

In the amusement industry, the arcade business - of which Namco is a leading player - has peaked, and all except the largest theme parks, such as Tokyo Disneyland and Universal Studios Japan, are struggling to survive. This must have made the virgin territory of the food theme park look like a good place to explore. According to a Namco representative, "Customers come to the parks even in these difficult times because they offer sensory pleasures at reasonable prices." There is, moreover, still ample room for growth in this field. Namco forecasts that the number of these parks will increase to around 30 in the next three years.

In order to prevent an erosion of popularity, some of the older food theme parks are reshuffling their tenants and renewing their menus. As competition grows, each facility will need to redouble its efforts to keep customers coming back. From the consumers' point of view, this means they can look forward to satisfying their appetites at more parks with better fare.

Don't pay sales tax when shopping in Akihabara
If you take a trip to Japan and buy some electronics, etc, be sure and carry your passport with you to the store and you will be exempted from paying the 5% sales tax.  They will fill out a little card, put a stamp on it, and staple it into your passport. When you exit the country, they will take the little card out of your passport.
Some of the the electronics stuff is labelled to run on 100V AC, but it works fine over here. And remember, don't buy a DVD player unless you really want the region 3 encoding!

People in Japan bow -- a lot. While visitors are not expected to know the complexities of the bow, a few tips will help. First, bow from the waist with the arms straight at your sides. Imitate the bows you receive (there are lots of rules regarding the depth of bows -- social abstractions that take decades to learn). Don't overbow or ignore the greeting. It's better to smile politely and nod your head than to be perceived as rude. After awhile, you'll find yourself bowing automatically (when I encountered a Japanese coworker at my office in Los Angeles, I automatically found myself bowing in greeting).

Etiquette - Guests

The Japanese are gift-givers. If you're invited to their homes (very rare, as the culture tends to entertain in public places), bring a gift -- the hotel's concierge can assist in this matter if necessary. While we are very fond of the gift melon concept, flowers, candy, or alcohol are also appropriate (besides, a good melon in Tokyo can cost a small fortune). For any kindness done, be sure to be profusely thankful. You may feel awkward, but your return gestures will be remembered and appreciated.

Hygiene

Western-style restrooms are generally found in larger department stores and many restaurants. If you encounter a Japanese-style toilet, remember that you squat (or aim) facing the raised hood of the unit (it takes some getting used to, but it is quite sanitary). Always carry tissues or toilet paper with you -- not every restroom stocks these items. And, we've found, paper towels are also scarce in restrooms. It's helpful to note that a current marketing trend involves printing advertisements on small packages of tissue. These packages are usually handed out around the major subway stations and can come in quite handy.
Blowing your nose in public is considered to be bad manners. Excuse yourself and go into the restroom.

While the number of public baths in Tokyo has declined, the custom is still prevalent. Men and women bathe separately except in outdoor hot springs. You will be guided through the process, however the ritual is generally the same in all situations: first, remove your clothing and (after discretely covering the front of your body with your washcloth), proceed to the bath area; before actually entering the bath, you must first wash yourself; basins and stools are situated near faucets -- fill the basin with water, sit on the stool, soap down completely, then rinse off the soap; once you're clean, then you may enter the bath. The water will be very hot (ease in slowly), but after a while, relaxation seeps into your bones and peace enters your soul.

Language - Spoken

Japanese is a phonetic language, and that makes it easy to learn some basic phrases. English is generally read and spoken by younger Japanese people, however, the differences between Japanese and English generally make conversation very difficult. Stick with the basics, carry a phrase book, and try to elicit the help of your concierge for directions and information whenever possible.

Language - Written

Conveniently, the language has three different written formats: kanji, hiragana, and katakana. While kanji is the most complex and not easily learned, a basic understanding of hiragana and katakana will be very useful (both are phonetic, and a basic understanding of them can help in translating menus); most train stations (at least in Tokyo) have the current and upcoming stations indicated in a combination of kanji, hiragana, and romanji -- the Arabic symbol version of the language. With a little training, you too can read menus with ease...slowly, but easily. Power Japanese (a CD-ROM based learning program) is highly recommended as a way to learn the language.

Money

It is considered to be rude to count the change that has been handed back to you after making a purchase. This is a culture that prides itself on its honesty -- it's better to be trusting (plus, are you really in a position to translate the currency quickly enough to make this assessment?). Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere (despite the fact that Japan is generally a cash-basis society. ATM machines are also widely available (but play it safe -- before leaving home, visit your bank and change your PIN to a 4-digit number; don't follow my lead by learning that not all machines around the world have the fun little letter/number combination on the keys or that they only accept 4-digit PINs).

Politeness

The Japanese are nothing if not polite. In fact, they are so polite that varying degrees of politeness (or lack thereof) are often used to convey rudeness. One of the great complexities of the Japanese language actually involves the many different words that are often used to communicate the same meaning. Some words are considered to be far more polite than others. Even if you don't intend to speak much Japanese, this is an important concept to understand during your stay in Japan. At all times try your best to be VERY polite.

Shoes

When, where, why, and how shoes are worn in Japan can be confusing. Generally, shoes are not worn in Japanese homes, temples, ryokan, and various other public places (including some restaurants). Again, it's helpful to follow the lead of locals -- don't panic, your shoes won't be stolen while you're off touring a temple. Sometimes, slippers will be provided to guests. These slippers generally fall into two categories: house slippers (for walking the halls, but remove them before walking on tatami) and bathroom slippers (remove the house slippers, put on the bathroom slippers, do whatever you're going to do, remove the bathroom slippers, replace the house slippers, continue on your way).

Tipping

It's true -- tipping is not customary in Japan. Whether in a taxi or restaurant, you pay the price indicated. Note however, that some establishments may add a service charge (10 - 15%) to bills, although this is generally limited to higher priced establishments.

Visiting Cards

Visiting cards, or business cards, are essential for business travelers. The meishi are exchanged in small ceremonies whereby the parties bow and present their cards with both hands to each other (if you're in a business situation, watch your hosts for guidance) -- the recipient of the card should be able to read the information while you're presenting the card, so take care to ensure that the printed information is facing in the correct direction. The concierge at your hotel will be able to help those who don't have cards of their own (or, if you have the available resources, you can save quite a bit of money by printing up the cards on your own before leaving home -- I priced the cards at about 100 for $100).

All ATMs listed appear to use the PLUS network, which our ATM cards are part of
Citibank and Post Offices definitely accept foreign ATM cards, including PLUS
ATM service is free (excluding PNC's fees) at a post office
Konbini may have 24 hour ATMs but they may not take foreign cards; there is also a 24 hour Citibank ATM in Narita Airport

Post offices and other ATMs [only lists the first 99 in Tokyo] http://visaatm.infonow.net/bin/findNow?ONE=1&CLIENT_ID=VISA_USA&LOCATOR=VISA_USA&TYPE=PERSONAL

POST OFFICE
"2-5-23, Yanaka, Taitoku"
Tokyo JAPAN  110-0001
at TAITO TANINAKA POSTOFFICE


http://www.jref.com/practical/bank.shtml :

A few big Mitsui-Sumitomo Banks accept foreign Visa, Mastercard, Maestro and Cirrus. They usually boast a conspicuous "Visa" sign. Since 2002, Japanese Post Offices also accept foreign cards and have menus in English, but close relatively early. Otherwise, Citibank is the best bet for most visitors to Japan, as it offers 7day/24h ATM service, accept foreign cards and is free for Citibank (or associate) card holders. The drawback is that they aren't as numerous as Japanese banks or post offices.

Check the list of Citibanks in Japan below:

24h Citibank ATM's locations

Kanto

• AKASAKA, Prudential Plaza, Nagatacho 2-13-10, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3596-8836
• AOYAMA, Hanae Mori Bldg, 4F 3-6-1, Kita-Aoyama Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0061
• GINZA, M2, 2F, 3F, 4F Kurosawa Bldg., 6-9-2 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061
• GOTANDA, 1F, 3F, Gotanda Hata Bldg., 2-2-3 Higashi-Gotanda Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 141-0022
• HIROO, 2F, Hiroo Plaza, 5-6-6 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0012
• JIYUGAOKA, 2F Okuzumi Bldg. 1-26-14, Jiyugaoka Meguro-ku, Tokyo
• KICHIJOJI, Kichijoji Iwasaki Building, 1F,8F, 1-15-9 Kichijoji-Honcho Musashino-shi, Tokyo 180-0004
• OTEMACHI, 1F, Ote Center Bldg., 1-1-3 Ohtemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0004
• ROPPONGI, 2F, Roppongi Miami Bldg., 5-1-1, Roppongi Minato-ku, Tokyo
• SEIJOGAKUEN-MAE Station North Exit, 6-4-15 Seijo, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
• SHIBUYA, 1F, Dogenzaka Kabuto Bldg., 2-25-12 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0043
• SHINJUKU South Exit, 1F, Shinjuku Sky Bldg., 1-18-8 Nishi-Shinjuku Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0023
• SHINJUKU East Exit, B1,1F, 2F Kawase Bldg, 3-17-5 Shinjuku Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0022
• TACHIKAWA, Suzuharu Building B1,1F,2F, 2-7-16, Akebono-cho, Tachikawa-shi, Tokyo 190-0012
• YOKOHAMA, 2F, 8F, 10F Yokohama First Bldg., 1-6-1 Kita-saiwai Nishi-ku Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa 220-0004

Glossary